


• ^.'^ ^^ oVje 







g^,- ^v --^ .y^^XF/ >- 







Europe 



for 



$2 a Day 



^OOKg OF iJuROP^AJN Jr/^VZU 



Saunter ing 8, By Charles Dudley Warner, Author of " My 

Summer in a Garden," etc $ 1.50. 

.... "The book contains a little about England and France, more about 
Switzerland and Holland, and a great deal concerning South Germany and Italy. 
There is not a dull page in it ; but it ^lows with a quiet drollery ana a genuine 
wit that is refreshing, and not provokmg, as wit too often is." — Springfitld Re- 
publican. 

Caatilian Days, By John Hay. x2mo. $ 3.00. 

". A most attractive volume, in which Colonel Hay writes easily and pictu- 
resquely of the cities, streets, and buildings, and oflthe history, politics, and 
domestic life and character of the inhabitants, of that unique, old-fashioned 
country [Spain]." — London Spectator. 



Hawthorne* s European Sketches and Notes* 

OUR OLD HOME. Essays on English towns, country scenes, people, and 
customs, ta.cx). 

ENGLISH NOTE-BOOKS. Containing a multitude of hints and flying sketches 
of England and the English. $2.00. 

PEENCH AND ITALIAN NOTE-BOOM. Full of Hawthorne-ish observa- 
tions and reflections. $ 2.00. 



Boppin's Travel Sketches, 

UPS AND DOWNS ON LAND AND WATER. #10.00. 
CB0SSIN8 THE ATLANTIC. $500. 
ON THE NILE. $ lo.oa 
Mirth-provoking books, diverting to look at while voyaging, pleasant to exam- 
ine as reminders of travel past 



The Itands of Scott. By James F. Hunnewelu ismo. $ 2.50. 

*• It is a delightful epitome of the great author's life and works, the reader being 
introduced to a detailed acquamtance with these, while he is led through the 
localities which the genius of Scott has celebrated." — Buffalo Courier. 



Six Months in Italy. By George S. Hillard. $ 2.00. 

" The record of a brilliant episode in the life of a scholar, which has filled his 
memory with images alike beautiful and enduring. It is almost minute enough in 
its descriptions for a guide-book, yet abounds in just and sensible remarks, well- 
informed criticisms, and varied learmnj;." — Putnam's Monthly. 



Notes of Travel and Study in Italy. By Charles Eliot 

Norton. $ 1.25. 
"Mr. Norton is no ordinary tourist." — /»/ij7tf. Press. 



•«• For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt 0/ price, by the Put- 
Usktrs, 

James R. Osgood & Co., Boston. 



Eitrope for $ 2 a Day, 



A FEW NOTES FOR THE ASSISTANCE OF TOURISTS OF 

MODERATE MEANS, WITH SOME PERSONAL 

REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL. 



By M^VrsWEETSER. 




BOSTON: 
JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 
1875. 



NOXONIHSVM 
S63)IONOD lO 



Copyright, 1875. 
By JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. 






'1 



University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co. 
Camdridge. 



PEEFAOE. 



I BEGAN by reading " Eobinson. Crusoe," and ended 
with tlie wanderings of Ulysses. Between these two 
extremes were twelve years, and several scores of books 
had been devoured. It seemed that almost everything 
worth mentioning in the history of the world had 
taken place in Europe and around the Mediterranean 
Sea, and that about all the art and architecture under 
the sun were displayed in those favored lands. I there- 
fore resolved to forego the Plato and the Calculus of 
the Senior year, and to study the mother-lands of mod- 
ern civilization. I could make a right royal and free- 
handed tour of three months' duration ; or a more 
moderately conducted sojourn of a year ; or an econom- 
ical journey of still longer duration. The first would 
give a glance at London, Paris, and Germany, with 
perhaps a flash into Italy ; the second would do all 
this, and aff"ord oj)portunity to study Germany, Swit- 
zerland, Rome, and Naples ; the third would add 



iv Preface. 



Egypt, Palestine, and Greece. I decided on the latter 
course, and made a tour of twenty months at a cost of 
$1,500, out of which I purchased $300 worth of pic- 
tures and other souvenirs. 

While making my plans I read Bayard Taylor's 
" Views a-Foot " and Ealph Keeler's " Atlantic " pa- 
pers, but they did not answer my purpose. I wished 
to know how a gentleman can make the European tour 
very economically, yet without encountering absolute 
hardship, or demeaning himself by assuming the garb 
and customs of the peasant. I was therefore left to 
learn by experience, a sufficiently hard teacher. The 
lessons which I thus acquired, and a previous knowl- 
edge of which would have made the trip much more 
enjoyable, I have grouped in this little book, hoping 
that they may be of service to some who shall come 
after. Rugged and disconnected, and all that, they may 
be, but they are given in good faith, and with a hope 
to " lend a hand." You may think, my kind reader, 
that some of the suggestions are quite superfluous, and 
so they may be to you, but not to the next man who 
buys this book. I have seen repeated instances of 
dereliction or of suft'ering under many of the condi- 
tions deprecated in the ensuing pages. 

I should like to put one of these little books into the 



Preface. 



hand of every young American who is about to make 
the European tour with limited pecuniary resources. 
I have therefore made its selling price only large 
enough to cover the cost of printing, and have been 
aided also by the advertisements in defraying the ex- 
penses. With respect to these advertisements, which 
Avere furnished at a late hour by the firm of James 
R. Osgood & Co., I can say that I thoroughly in- 
dorse their commendations of Baedeker's European 
Handbooks, of which they are the American pub- 
lishers. As to Osgood's American Handbooks, I can- 
not give so decided an opinion, as I have not travelled 
by their aid (though I hope to do so some time), but 
if the critics are right when they give them a rank 
with Baedeker's and Murray's guides, they must be 
very excellent works. 

This book is intended for the use of young men who 
have resolved to make the tour, and are planning as to* 
how they can best accomplish it. They will differ from 
me in some points on which I have insisted, and will 
doubtless find others of but little value, but I trust 
that every reader of these pages may get at least two 
or three hints which will be of good service. If a man 
has got " Europe on the brain " (inelegant, but expres- 
sive), and can't go like a prince, and won't go like a 



vi Preface. 



peasant, but is prepared to face a little hardship and 
practise certain self-denials, then this book will serve 
him. But to people who are not inwardly impelled to 
go abroad, who have been used to luxury and can't do 
without it, who lack either physical strength or in- 
domitable hearts, who want to go abroad merely be- 
cause it is fashionable, or because the European tour 
is to their understanding an immense lark, I would 
frankly say : Don't go across the water until you have 
plenty of money. 



OOI^TENTS 



1. A few Reasons for making the European Tour, — and 

the Policy of going while Young . 

2. Of a Preliminary American Tour . 

3. Of Certain Wise Preparations 

4. The Voyage across the Ocean 

5. Of Hotels and Boarding 

6. Of Railroads and their Accommodations 

7. Of Steamboats and their Arrangements 

8. Of Baggage 

9. About Money, and how to carry it . 

10. Of buying Goods wisely 

11. Of Clothing 

12. Of Photographs for Mementos 

13. Of Circulating Libraries, Cheap Books, etc, 

14. Of American Consvils and their Powers . 

15. Of Fees and Gratuities 

16. Of Companions .... 

17. Of Pedestrian Tours .... 

18. Of Guide-Books .... 

19. Of carrying Weapons 

20. Of Diaries, Sketch-Books, etc. 



9 
25 
28 
37 
45 
51 
56 
60 
62 
67 
70 
72 
75 
79 
82 
84 
90 
94 
99 
102 



viii Contents. 



21. Of Newspaper Correspondence 107 

22. Of the Etiquette of Churches and Palaces . . 112 

23. Of English Churches on the Continent, etc. . .117 

24. Of forming Proper Anticipations .... 121 

25. Of Peculiar Tourists 124 

26. Of Passports 127 



EUROPE FOR $2 A DAY. 



1. A feiv Reasons for making the European Tour, — 
and the Policy of going while Young. 
One of the best reasons for this tour is the sun- 
shine of memories which it stores up in the mind, 
like the ancient heavenly rays which were absorbed 
by the vegetation of the carboniferous era. As the 
latter now mitigates the cold of our Northern win- 
ters in the genial heat of the glowing coals, so may 
the strata of reminiscence yield their cheering 
warmth during the storms which the coming t"me 
may have in its gloomy reserves. Or through the 
sweetest summer-hours and the days of palmiest 
prosperity, there will come hours when a yet 
brighter glow will suffuse the mind in the light 
of that remembered holiday. Tiie outlines of the 
1* 



10 Europe for %1 a Day. 

tour, at first strongly marked and definite, \vill 
slowly fade away, leaving in the mind a vast and 
beautiful memory, as vaguely drawn as one of 
Turner's paintings, and as fascinating. If it is 
desired to restore or to keep fresh the Pre-Raj^hael- 
ite distinctness of any phase of the pilgrimage, 
that may be eff'ected by the aid of the diaries and 
pictures which have been brought home. In idle 
hours, on sea or land, on quiet Sabbath afternoons, 
in the serene hush of old age, you are not forced 
to feed the active mind with affairs of business or 
family cares, for there is a most glorious gallery 
of pictures in the corridors of memory, where the 
new life can admire the achievements of the ear- 
lier days. Or when you are riding home at even- 
ing in the crowded horse-car, and have thought 
over every phase of your business and your domes- 
tic management, and have grown weary with all 
the prose of this work-a-day world, you could stray 
back to rest amid those old poetic memories, — 
in the rural lanes of Merrie England, the legend- 
crowned towers of the Khineland, the sun-confront- 
ing Alps, the white and heroic cities of Italy, the 



Europe for %1 a Day. 11 

Sicilian orange-groves, the divine solitudes of 
Greece and Palestine, beloved of gods and men. 
If your thoughts chance to take an anthropocen- 
tric turn (as the philosophers would say), you 
could recall the lineaments and traits of that 
merry Saxon student who taught you to like 
lager-bier in the Briidergasse at Dresden, the 
black-eyed Marianina who brought you a bouquet 
every morning at the little Roman cafe, or the 
truculent and evasive Suleyman who guided you 
from Jerusalem to Damascus, and howled his dis- 
mal Arab songs into the shrinking wind. But it 
is useless to dwell on the value of such reminis- 
cences, — the poet has already revealed all that in 
" The Pleasures of Memory." If the uncultured 
farmer from the Fourth Range of the townships 
of Maine derives material for years of pleasant 
retrospects from a week's visit to " Besting," how 
much more ought you, with your observant mind, 
to gain from a year in Euroj)e ! 

The aesthetic tastes are developed more fully 
and broadly by the European tour than in any 
other way. Nowhere else are the beauties of 



12 Europe for $2 a Day. 

nature and of art displayed so lavishly, and 
nowhere else have they been so thoroughly com- 
prehended and compared. There arc detached 
bits of natural grandeur in America which have 
no equals across the sea ; but here the intervening 
distances are so vast that no traveller less fanatical 
than Mr. Phileas Fogg would dream of visiting 
and comparing them. Niagara Falls, the Yo- 
semite Valley, and the peak of Mount St. Eli as 
are grander, each in its wa}^, — as representing 
distinctive elements of scenery, — than anything 
of their kinds in the Old World. But thousands 
of miles intervene between them, rendering it 
nearly impossible to conduct a successful journey 
thereto without incurring great expense and hard- 
ship. The scenic interest of America (as well as 
that of Asia and Africa) is impaired by its vast 
distances. There are also people who complain 
of the bad taste shown by "the exaggerations of 
nature on this continent " ; but they are generally 
Anglicized Americans, and deserve pity rather 
than censure. The Fourth-of-July orators are 
wiser than they know, when, from the influence 



Europe for %1 a Day. 13 

of hereditary custom and the desire of pleasing 
their rustic audiences, they claim that America 
has greater rivers, loftier mountains, broader 
plains, and larger lakes "than the effete despot- 
isms of the Old World " ; but the very magnitude 
of these natural features renders most of them 
comparatively inaccessible. Nowhere have we 
such a continuous succession of scenic beauties as 
may be found in journeying from Cologne to Sor- 
rento, where the traveller passes, by short and 
easy stages, from the rich and picturesque Rhine- 
land to the bright lakes and glacier-girdled peaks 
of Switzerland, the fair and fruitful plains of Lom- 
bardy, the Apennine ridges and glens of Tuscany, 
the matchless sea-view^s from the Cornice Road, 
the proud desolation of the Roman Campagna, 
and the unrivalled beauty of the Bay of Naples. 

Moreover, the modes of access and sojourn have 
been so carefully provided in the old realms of 
Europe, that travellers can pass from point to 
point with the minimum degree of expense and 
trouble. There are hotels and railroad-cars for 
all grades of pecuniary ability, and cosey inns 



14 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

built ill the very arcana of nature ; broad and 
massive roads in the remotest Aljune districts; 
enrailed gorges, illuminated caverns, pavilioned 
view-points, and tower-crowned mountains. Ev- 
ery device which the brain and hand of man 
could jjlan or construct for rendering the sight- 
seer's task easy has been applied in Central and 
Western Europe. Nature is exhibited at her 
best ; it only remains to comprehend her. 

And in the comprehension of the highest mis- 
sion and grandeur of Nature and Art, the travel- 
ler has rare aids. For w^e are not all gifted with 
equal discrimination and power of appreciation in 
all the realms of beaut^^ Even if the intuitive 
natural percolations are ah origine correct in these 
matters (and not weakened by the inheritance of 
many decades of American practicalism), they are 
likely to be either undeveloped or perverted. The 
startling, the grotesque, the brilliant, will often 
attract the attention and enlist the interest, how- 
ever meretricious or unworthy it may otherwise 
be ; while objects of infinitely higher beauty may 
be lightly passed by. The average traveller would 



Europe for %1 a Day. 15 

feci far more interest in the Manneken of Brussels 
than in the Victory of Brescia. Without some 
knowledge of the history and principles of art, the 
works of the great masters, in their present an- 
tiquity and oft-seen dilapidation, would scarce 
demand a second glance. Nine men out of ten, 
without previous art-culture or historic knowledge, 
w^ould prefer the brilliant paintings of the modern 
French and Diisseldorf schools to the rare works 
of the earlier masters ; admiring Holman Hunt or 
Ary Scheffer more than Albert Diirer or Leonardo 
da Vinci ; and choosing the landscapes of Gifford 
and Church before those of Poussin and Claude 
Lorraine. Many of the tourists themselves would 
be unable to give the reasons of their preferences 
for the more ancient and august schools of art, ex- 
cept that it is en regie, and that all previous trav- 
ellers had become enthusiastic over them. It is 
only after earnest study of the great w^orks them- 
selves, and of the canons of art relating to them, 
that their full glory is manifest. Even the Dresden 
Madonna is beautified above its apparent majesty, 
by a knowledge of the principles which underlie 



16 Eurojye for %1 a Day. 

its designs and history. To pass to other things, 
how apt is the nndisciphncd mind to form wrong 
relative conceptions about the phenomena of na- 
ture, of rehgious systems, of ethics, and of evciy 
chiss of the manifestations of mind and matter ! 

We need, therefore, a stronger outward light, — 
a higher criterion of the true, the beautiful, and 
the good, — in order to rightly and fully appreci- 
ate the world about us. Such a criterion may be 
found (if anywhere) in the recorded opinions of 
the wnse men of the past three thousand years, 
and in this introspective criticism the literature 
of Europe and the Levant is wonderfully rich. 
There is no department of observation or inquiry 
on which this light is not thrown ; — from the 
physical and sesthetical relations of the Swiss 
and Syrian mountains to the subtlest speculations 
on the elusive problems of psychology, from the 
fascinating analysis of the works and aspirations 
of the cathedral-builders and JMadonna-painters to 
the latest achievements in railroad construction or 
naval and military armaments. The traveller in 
Europe can cultivate his aesthetic tastes under 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 17 

the mentorship of the loftiest intellects of all 
ages, — from ^schylus aud Homer dowu to Haw- 
thorne and Tyndall. 

Another benefit which is likely to arise from a 
prolonged European tour is the knowledge of for- 
eign languages. It is difficult to avoid picking up 
many phrases in the diffisrent countries which are 
traversed, and the traveller who wishes to master 
the languages needs only to be duly observant 
and receptive, and to spend a few earnest days 
over the grammars. 

It is evident that habits of self-reliance and of 
the close observance of human nature will be de- 
veloped in a young man who attempts to travel 
over Europe with limited means. He will soon 
learn how to detect and combat the selfishness 
and stupidity of the North, or the knavery and 
treachery of the South, and will become skilled in 
the meanings of tones and fixces. He has no fam- 
ily protection to fall back on, no college club to 
grade his expenses equitably, no comrades to 
confer with, — but must face the music alone. In 
the great cities he will meet deceivers of every 



18 Europe for $2 a Day. 

grade, — sometimes most refined in appearance, — 
and, unless lie travels in reticent seclusion, he 
must learn to detect these wolves and escape 
them. He must learn to curb and control his 
Italian or Arab guides, and to expose their tricks ; 
to avoid the boundless impositions of the shopmen 
and innkeepers ; to meet all manner of men on 
the vantage-ground which official station or innate 
ajititude has given them, and to be observant of 
their ways and demands. The object is to make 
a limited sum of money" carry you as far and 
unlock for you as many gates as possible, and to 
achieve this end, lavishness and carelessness must 
be guarded against at every turn. Economy will 
then be a trait which may be rapidly developed, 
and there are but few who are heedless enough to 
traverse Europe without a close scrutiny of their 
bills. If the careful traveller who rejects extor- 
tions and demands equity inspires transitory re- 
sentments among the hosts who live on tourists, 
the lavish and unquestioning son of shoddy who 
submits to every demand oftentimes excites pit- 
ying contempt. (In speaking of economy, I 



Europe for %1 a Day. 19 

mean the grand old Platonic idea of olKovofita, 
"the law of the home," and its wise adaptation 
of resonrces to desired ends, — a virtue which, 
thank God, is once more growing among the 
American people. Vicious parsimony is some- 
times mistaken for this noble attribute, but with 
that I have naught to do; for a truly parsimonious 
man w411 scarcely venture on the European tour.) 
Another benefit resulting from this journey is 
the securing of a higher physical culture. The 
exchanging of sedentary pursuits for an active 
out-door life which is protracted through many 
months can result only in benefit to the entire 
system. Every plan of the European tour should 
include a pedestrian journey and some mountain- 
climbing; while even the task of sight-seeing in 
the cities calls out a remarkable amount of physi- 
cal exercise. It is uninteresting and (since the 
mind becomes re-active) almost unprofitable to 
attempt laborious exercise for its own sake, but 
when there is some noble object in view that labor 
becomes rich in healing. The weary hypochon- 
driac who finds it hard work to walk around Bos- 



20 Europe for %1 a Day. 

ton Common twice a day, in obedience to his 
doctor, wonld, after a short preliminary discipline, 
walk in a day from Coventry to Kenil worth and 
Warwick, or from Zermatt to the ^ggischhorn 
and the Faulbcrg Grotto. In Professor Tyndall's 
words, this cheery walking "rescues the blood 
from that f\itty degeneration which a sedentary 
life is calculated to induce." 

Still another rich lesson to be learned on the 
European tour is the history of the people, — 
their religions, ethnology, and local quaintnesses. 
The grandeur of this study and its wide possibil- 
ities are too evident to require more than a mere 
statement here. The inductions thus formed, 
after adequate and patient observation and 
thought, will be of constant value to -the scholar 
or the man of society. The variety and richness 
of the subjects of study in this line are beyond 
estimate. Here you can observe the scenes and 
effects of the achievements and beliefs of the 
men of Europe from the remote era of the stone 
age down to the rise of centralized imperialism 
in Gennanv, and the failure of the republican 



Europe for 1 2 a Day. 21 

systems among the Latin nations. Men are of 
more importance than stone, even though the 
stone be the marble of Pares and Pentelicus, 
carried into the most majestic and beautiful sem- 
blances of life. " The granite statues have out- 
lived the gods," but the human soul gave origin 
to both and has outlived them all. The classic 
nations, submerged under the resistless deluge 
of the Northern races, have passed from the 
world ; but we can still study the descendants 
of the Saracens, the Celts, and the Dani, and 
the splendors of the modern Gothic civilization 
of Western Europe, remembering, in pride and 
hope, that 30,000,000 of the Americans are Goths 
also, and are still conducting the immemorial 
Gothic policy of a victorious march to the west- 
ward. 

In matters of art and architecture Europe is 
like a vast Kindergarten school to the American, 
whose country, although unrivalled in its rail- 
roads, bridges, mines, and factories, and unex- 
celled in the comfort and purity of its homes, 
has not yet entered on a course of wise embellish- 



22 Europe for %1 a Day. 

iiieiit. Tlie technical terms and the achievements 
of the various schools of painting, from Cimabue 
to (Jerome, are there placed before him, and can 
be analyzed and understood by the plainest ob- 
ject-lessons. The noblest statuary of the world, 
from the days of Phidias to those of Powers, are 
displayed in full view. The various styles of 
architecture are there to be studied, from the 
Parthenon of Ictinus to the new Law-Courts of 
Gilbert Scott, and all its marvellous changes and 
fulfilled aspirations are recognized. Even without 
giving special study to the subject, and by simply 
looking on the buildings in the dim light of a 
guide-book, the traveller will soon learn the dif- 
ference between Gothic and llenaissance. Classic 
and Romanesque, and can distinguish between a 
gargoyle and a caryatide, or a finial and a crocket. 
I have given but a few of the many reasons 
why the European tour should be made. Some 
of the others are sufficiently obvious to any one, 
and others may be found in stronger and wiser 
books than this little pamphlet. But the chief 
reason, after all, is — that you want to go; and 



Euro^je for | 2 a Dwj. 23 

that point requires no argument. Some young 
men have as strong a yearning and as intense a 
need of going to Europe as the theological stu- 
dents at Andovcr or Newton feel for entering the 
ministry, and perhaps it comes from the same 
source. 



There are many reasons why a man should 
make this tour while he is yet young. The pro- 
fessional or mercantile connections and the family 
ties which soon twine tliemselves around men 
render a long absence impossible, even if sufficient 
money is forthcoming. If he does not go before 
he is tw^enty-five years old, he generally will not 
be able to go until after forty-five, and by that 
time much of the earlier enthusiasm will have 
faded away, and the fresh and adventurous spirit 
of youth will have vanished, like the effervescent 
bubbles of champagne. He will then have a 
richer fund of experience and observation to draw 
upon, and can compare things w^ith a clearer eye, 
but his journey will have none of the tin-ill and 
the romantic joy of that of the youth fresh from 



24 Europe for %1 a Bay. 

college, with the beautiful (ircek and mediaeval 
myths haunting his memory in all their fresh 
brilliancy ; with the world before him, unclouded 
and joyous; and Avith an unworn and tireless 
physical system. The maturer man would some- 
times look on cathedrals and palaces with his 
admiration mingled with sorrow, remembering 
the evil popes, the extortions from the" people, 
the revelations of the lust and greed of mon- 
archs; but the youth has not yet read D'Au- 
bign^ and Draper, Gibbon and Greville, and he 
2)eoples all these vast temples of religion and 
sovereignty with lofty ideals. 

The information gained by the young man in 
this tour will aid him in all his after-life and in 
many ways, and besides that he would have 
many more years of golden memories. If at any 
future time he wishes to make the journey again, 
it can be done much easier and with better re- 
sults, from the data afforded by the first visit. 
An experienced traveller has said that any one 
who wishes to carry out the European tour in 
a thoroughly enjoyable manner, should make a 



Europe for | 2 a Bay. 25 

preliminary visit of six months' duration to its 
chief places, — the first trip being of the nature 
of a reconnoissance, whose resulting information 
could be used on the main tour. 

2. Of a Preliminary American Tour. 

Gfentlemen of the class which might be called 
the ultra-American will strongly advise you "to 
see your own country" before going abroad. If 
this counsel were followed, you could never go 
to Europe, for it would take a long life and a 
longer purse to see our country, from Alaska to 
Florida, or even to visit the famous places of 
resort between Los Angeles and Mount Desert. 
There is no section of the Republic that has not 
charms for the tourist, in greater or less degree. 
But our distances are great, and the expenses 
of travelling here are comparatively heavy, so 
that but few young men can afford the time or 
money necessary to make the tours of both con- 
tinents. Since you can do but one, of course 
your choice should fall upon the older and richer, 
2 



26 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

where you can enjoy more and learn more, and 
where you can travel much longer for the same 
amount of money. I may be overstating the 
matter, and 1 acknowledge that I know little 
about America except what I have read, but I 
believe that there are far more and richer treas- 
ures of art in little Belgium than on this wliole 
continent, and that the narrow domains of Swit- 
zerland contain more noble natural scenery than 
all the States east of the Rocky Mountains. Af- 
ter you have completed the foreign tour you 
will have a lifetime in which to visit our not- 
able places, and you can enjoy them with a 
higher and more cultured taste. If you can 
then say, with so many other men of voyages, 
that the Hudson surpasses the Rhine, that 
Mount Desert suggests Capri, or that West Vir- 
ginia is rich in Tyrolese scenery, it will please 
us all. You can also bring back valuable ideas 
in art which may perhaps aid our poverty in 
that direction. B}^ the way, an English trav- 
eller in this country once told me that the mo- 
notonous similaritv of our new soldiers' munu- 



Europe for %1 a Bay. 27 

ments gave him the idea that a regiment stand- 
ing at parade-rest had somehow been converted 
into bronze, and that its members had been dis- 
tribnted among our towns, to guard their public 
squares from the summits of granite pedestals. 

If you can afford an American tour preliminary 
to your foreign one, it should be in the ancient 
and wealthy districts of New England and the 
Middle States. Plymouth, Newport, Harvard and 
Yale Colleges, and perhaps the White Mountains 
and the Maine coast, would give you valuable 
ideas of New England. A circular tour from New 
York up the Hudson and Lakes George and 
Champlain, then to Montreal and up the St. Law- 
rence and Lake Ontario to Niagara Falls, thence by 
Erie and across the Alleghanies to Gettysburg, 
Baltimore, and Washington, and a return through 
Philadelphia to New York, — such is the outline 
of a journey which, I have been assured, would 
include some of the most interesting places in the 
Atlantic States. You can get round-trip tickets 
covering this route for a low price (during the 
summer), and it would probably take but three or 



28 Europe for $2 a Day. 

four weeks. Osgood's American guide-books to 
New England and the Middle States would enable 
you to estimate your other expenses from their 
lists and prices of the hotels, etc., and would 
doubtless give all necessary information about the 
scener}^, cities, and historic events. If you could 
spare the time and money, this would make a 
valuable tour and greatly increase your knowledge 
of the foremost cities and finest scenery of the 
Atlantic States. If you are not going abroad for 
a year or two, this prefatory journey would afford 
a rich and interesting summer-vacation meantime, 
giving you also a foretaste of the bright and the 
dark sides of pleasure-travel with limited means. 

3. Of Certain Wise Preparations. 

In Reading. — You can hardly go amiss in laying 
in a large store of information about the scenes 
which you propose to visit. The guide-books will 
give you statistics in abundance, so your chief aim 
here should be to post yourself in history, art, and 
ethnology, in i"cfercnce to the lands which you are 



Europe for %'l a Day. 29 

going to. You will doubtless think of many 
other and better books, but I will tell you of a 
few which have greatly pleased me : — 

Draper's " Intellectual Development of Europe." 

Lecky's '' History of European Morals." 

Guizot's " History of Civilization." 

Brace's " Races of the Old World." 

Haven's " Scraps from a Pilgrim's Wallet." 
'■ Prime's " From the Alhambra to the Kremlin." 

Felton's " Familiar Letters." 

Twain's " The Innocents Abroad." 

Italy. — Hawthorne's '* Note - Books on Italy," 
Taine's "Travels," Eustace's "Classical Tour," 
Dante's "Inferno," Swinburne's "Italy" (a ringing 
poem), Boccaccio's " Decameron," Madame De 
Stael's " Corinne," Howells's " Italian Journeys," 
Warner's " Saunterings," Virgil's ^Eneid (Cranch's 
translation, or Morris's new one), Rogers's " Italy," 
Hillard's " Six Months in Italy." 

Rome. — Bulwer's " Rienzi," Hawthorne's "Mar- 
ble Faun," Story's "Roba di Roma," Gibbon's 
" Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire," Mil- 
man's " History of Latin Christianity," Hare's 
" Walks in Rome," and " Days near Rome." 



30 Europe for %2 a Day. 

Florence. — George Eliot's ''Romola." I should 
think that Ruskin's new " Mornings in Florence " 
would afford foscinating themes, as his " Yal 
d'Arno" does. Perkins's " Tuscan Sculptors." 

Venice. — Howells's "Venetian Life" and "A 
Foregone Conclusion"; Byron's" Marino Faliero." 

Germany. — Of course you should read as much 
as possible of Goethe and Schiller. In the Rhine- 
land you will be interested in Byron's "Childe 
Harold," Bulwer's "Pilgrims of the Rhine," Tom 
Hood's " Up the Rhine," Saintine's " Legends of 
the Rhine," Victor Hugo's " The Rhine," Long- 
fellow's " Golden Legend." Professor James M. 
Hart's new book on Germany and its universities 
is useful to whoever wishes to study there. A 
very serviceable history of Germany has been 
written by Bayard Taylor, based on the best 
authorities. Along and near the Rhine you 
might be interested in " Quentin Durward," 
" Anne of Geierstein," and Cooper's " Heiden- 
mauer." 

Great Britain. — The novels of Dickens and 
Thackeray will be especially attractive in Lon- 



Europe for %2 a Day. 31 

doii, and almost every Avork on English history 
enlightens parts of this vast metropolis. The 
romances of Sir Walter Scott and Burns's poems 
are for Scotland; the lives and poems of 
Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Sonthey for the 
Cumberland lakes ; Lever's stories and Moore's 
poems for Ireland ; Wilson's " Tales of the Bor- 
ders " for Southern Scotland. John Timbs's 
" Romance of London " and " Curiosities of 
London" contain many interesting items. Haw- 
thorne's " Our Old Home " and " English Note- 
Books " have many exquisite Avord-paintings, and 
Irving's " Sketch-Book " gives beautiful English 
views. 

France. — In Paris all travellers should read 
Victor Hugo's " Notre Dame " and " Les Miser- 
ables," and Eugene Sue's " Mysteries of Paris." 
Edward King's "My Paris" is light and pleasant. 
If you can get the book written about the late 
siege by the correspondent of the " London Daily 
News," that phase of history will be w^ell dis- 
played to you. Taine's " Notes on Paris." 

The Provinces. — Mrs. Macquoid's " Through 



32 Europe for $2 a Day. 

Normandy " is a recent work wliicli is liighly 
praised ; and Blackburn's " Nonnandy Pictu- 
resque" may give some fresh ideas. Blackburn 
and Taine have written fine works on the Pyre- 
nees ; and the mediaeval towns of Brittany and 
Provence have also been well described. 

The best books of travel have been written by 
Englishmen, and you will find them in abundance 
when you reach London. The quaint old prov- 
inces of Great Britain and France, the loftiest 
Alpine peaks, and all the shores and islands of 
the Mediterranean have been explored by the 
imperturbable Anglicans " with perennial j^ellow 
gaiter," and have been described, in many cases, 
with vigor and originality. 

The more you know of the history and techni- 
cal excellences of art, the better you can appre- 
ciate the vast collections of pictures that will 
demand your attention. When I went abroad I 
knew the names and nationalities of the great 
painters, but about their peculiar styles and their 
causes, their lives and characters, I had but little 
information. I have learned of these things 



Europe for $2 a Day. 33 

since ; but if I had seen their great works with 
this knowledge in mind, the effect would have 
been far better. Of the works on this subject 
which are easily accessible here, Mrs. Clement's 
handbook of " Painters, Sculptors, Engravers, and 
their AVorks " is perhaps the best, being jDortable, 
well condensed, and skilfully arranged. (It costs 
about $3.25.) The ponderous works of Ktigler 
and of Crowe and Cavalcaselle are too voluminous 
and technical for the unprofessional reader. Mrs. 
Jameson's " Italian Painters " affords interesting 
reading. 

You will also stand in daily need of information 
about the early saints and the Christian traditions 
as treated in Art ; also of the Greek mythology 
and fables. All these things are massed com- 
pactly in Mrs. Clement's " Handbook of Legend- 
ary and Mythological Art," a companion volume 
to the " Painters," etc. They are treated more 
diffusely and with fascinating interest in Mrs. 
Jameson's little blue-and-gold books, " Legends 
of the Madonna," " Legends of the Monastic 
Orders," and " Sacred and Legendary Art." 
2* c 



34 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 



You will, of course, carry with you a general 
knowledge of our own country, — its history, 
power, and government. For several months 
prior to my departure I devoted two hours a 
day to the study of American history, poetry, 
belles-lettres, and the Constitution of the Re- 
public, expecting to find many inquirers about 
these things among the effete despotisms of the 
Old World. So far as that went, however, a 
knowledge of the Sioux language would have 
been about as useful to me. Nearly all the 
English people whom I met were densely igno- 
rant about us, and the French were still more so. 
An Italian lady, rambling at eve in the Milanese 
Public Gardens, suggested that, since I came 
from America, I probably knew her brother, 
who had been in my country for twelve years. 
Recollecting the amicable Italian who was wont 
to intune the melody of ''The Beautiful Blue 
Danube " under my home-windows, I cautiously 
asked her in what city her brother dwelt. " In 
Rio Janeiro," she said. I told her that I was n't 
much acquainted there, — did n't go there very 



Europe for %1 a Day. 35 

often, in fact, — and forthwith gave up my design 
to be an apostle of xA^merican ideas, sent home 
my memoranda of the population, progress, and 
history of our States and cities, forgot Judge 
Paschal's comments on the Constitution, and let 
even " Thanatopsis " lie down to pleasant dreams. 
It is useful, however, to have the mind well 
stored w4th facts about our home-land, in order 
to make just comparisons with what we meet 
abroad. If the thousands of cultured Americans 
wdio cross the ocean every year would do this, 
and, noting the contrasts, would use their votes 
and influence when they return home in favor 
of improvement, the millions of our money which 
are spent in these tours would be well invested. 
We do not all know, for instance, that the masses 
of the Prussian nation are far better educated 
than are our own people ; that our skeleton army 
and powerless navy cost every year a much 
greater sum than maintains strong national ar- 
maments in Europe ; that tinder-box cities are 
an American specialty; and that municipal cor- 
ruption and legislative dishonor have reached 



36 Europe for |2 a Day. 

their lowest depths in our Republic. If our 
young men who go to Europe would bring 
back and energize their memories of the best 
things that they see there, we should have fewer 
Vinnie Pteams in art, Mulletts in architecture, 
Camerons in politics, and Morrisscys in civic 
power. I love to think that the United States 
is one of the three great nations of the world, 
that its people are happier and more prosperous 
than any others, and that its future is filled with 
ever-increasing glories ; but I used to wince at 
hearing, racked on guttural German or melted 
in sweet Italian, the disgraceful word, " Tam- 
many." Since that. Credit Mobilier and Pacific 
Mail ; and some new shame is probably now 
ripening for another "investigation." 

Standards of Comparison. — It is useful and in- 
teresting to' carry from your home the measure- 
ments of some public building or square, in order 
that you may make comparisons between them 
and the grander structures across the water. The 
mere statements of altitudes and areas in feet or 
yards give only a vague sense of the magnitude of 



Europe for %1 a Day. 37 

the objects under consideration ; but if you have 
other and more famihar objects with which you 
can compare them, the idea will be much more 
clear. It aids your conception of the spire of 
Strasbourg Cathedral to know that it is twenty- 
five feet higher than two Bunker Hill Monuments 
piled on each other; or that the dome of St. 
Peter's (at Rome) would hold more than thirty 
domes like that on the State House at Bos- 
ton ; that Commonwealth Avenue is wider than 
the Boulevards of Paris, and seventy-five feet 
wider than the Ring-Strasse of Vienna ; or that 
Mont Blanc is higher than Mounts Washing- 
ton, Adams, Kearsarge, and Holyoke piled upon 
each other. 

Jf. The Voyage across the Ocean. 

The expenses for a cabin-fare to Europe and 
back are formidable to one who wishes to make an. 
economical tour, but they must be met with the 
best grace possible. The wide margin of $ 100 on 
the out and return voyages will tempt many young 



38 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

men of limited means to prefer the steerage pas- 
sage to the cabin passage, bnt the money thus 
saved can never make compensation for the hard- 
ships endm-ed. I have known gentlemen who 
have crossed in this manner, but it has always 
been one of their most gloomy reminiscences ; and 
I had one friend, a theological student, who was 
made so dangerously sick by the steerage air that 
he was unable to commence his travels for several 
weeks after reaching the other shore. There is a 
large party of college students going to cross in 
the steerage this summer, and they may suc- 
ceed in avoiding some of the chief discomforts 
by mutual helpfulness. This part of the steam- 
ship is permanently infected with an air which 
is poisoned with a peculiarly foul acidity and 
a sickening mal-odor which are to the last de- 
gree disagreeable. I have never crossed in the 
steerage, but have visited that part of the ship 
on several occasions, both at sea and in port, and 
have never been able to remain but a very few 
minutes. It is not so bad on the eastward voyage, 
when there are generally but a few dozen passen- 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 39 

gers ; but the ships bound for America usually 
have hundreds of emigrants, men, women, and chil- 
dren, cooped up in the narrow space between decks, 
sick, squalid, and frowzy. These people are mostly 
Irish and English of the lower classes, a visit to 
whose houses, when they settle in America, would 
cause you disagreeable qualms ; and this feeling is 
mtensified by seeing them huddled together by 
hundreds and afflicted with sea-sickness. If the 
sea is quiet you could sleep and live on deck, but 
in case of a gale you are forced down into th3 
Gehenna below. Of course it is possible to en- 
dure and to make the passage both ways in this 
manner, but it would hedge in your journey on 
either side with such bitter and disgusting memo- 
ries as to overcloud the whole tour. I should 
advise a friend to wait years rather than go to 
Europe in the steerage. 

If you could get a chance to cross on some sail- 
ing-ship, your expenses might be comparatively 
light, and you would be transported by the poetry 
of motion. You can generally find American ves- 
sels in New York or Boston, loading for some 



40 Europe for $2 a Day. 

British or French, Btiltic or Mediternmean, port, 
and can perhaps secure a berth in the captain's 
cabin. The voyage is apt to be long, a deterring 
circumstance if you are HaVjle to sea-sickness. 

It is announced that there is a new hue of trans- 
atlantic steamships, which will sail every week 
between New York and Hull, with a uniform rate 
of $G0 for cabin accommodations. If its proprie- 
tors carry out their promises, this line will afford 
one of the most comfortable and economical routes 
to the British Isles. The second cabin of the 
Anchor Line steamships gives very pleasant quar- 
ters, and passengers by this route liave interesting 
views of the North Irish and Scottish coasts and 
the Clyde Kiver. 



The Cunard Line of " British and North Amer- 
ican Royal Mail Steamships" plies between New 
York and Liverpool {via Queenstown) semi- 
weekly. Fares, |130, $100, and $80 (steerage 
not announced). This line is especially famous 
for its safety and regularity. 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 41 

The Iiimaii Lino steamers leave New York 
for Queenstown and Liverpool every Saturday. 
Fares, $100 and $80 (steerage not announced). 

The xA.merican Line steamers leave Philadelphia 
for Queenstown and Liverpool every Thursday. 
Cabin fare, $ 100 (intermediate and steerage fares 
not announced). These are the superb and pow- 
erful vessels built on the Delaware River. 

The State Line leaves New York for Liverpool 
fortnightly. Fares, $ 70, | 60, and % 40. 

The White Star Line leaves New York for 
Queenstown and Liverpool every Saturday. 
Fares, $100 and $80 (steerage not announced). 

The National Line, from New York to Queens- 
town, Liverpool, and London. Fares, $ 80 and 
% 70 (steerage not announced). 

The Great Western Line, from New York to 
Bristol (Eng.). Fares, $70, $45, and $30. 

The Williams and Guion Line, from New York to 
Queenstown and Liverpool. Fares, $65 and $80. 

The Anchor Line, from New York to Glasgow, 
every week. Fares, $ 70 and $ 50 (steerage not 
stated). 



42 Europe for $2 a Day. 

The Ived Star Line, from New York and Phila- 
delphia to Antwerp, fortnightly. Fares, $ 90 and 
$ GO (steerage not announced). 

The North German Lloyd, from New York to 
Southampton and Bremen weekly. Fares, % 100, 
% GO, $ 24. 

General Transatlantic Company, from New York 
to Havre. Fares, $100, $ G5, 1 30, $22 (in 
gold). 

Sea-Sichiess. — You wnll doubtless read and hear 
of many infallible recipes against this distressing 
trouble, and perhaps some of them may afford 
relief. The best antidote that I found was a 
constant preoccupation of mind, and a methodi- 
cal ignoring of physical phenomena. The chief 
subject of thought and of conversation is apt to 
be the probabilities and pains of sea-sickness, and 
the reflex influence of so much dwelling on this 
theme has a very bad eflect. Allusions to this 
malady should be banished as rigorously as the 
Beecher-Tilton trial is forbidden mention in cer- 
tain circles of Knickerbocker aristocracy. The 



Europe for 1 2 a Day. 43 

mind is not usually in a condition to grapple witli 
study, while on the sea, and you will find light 
literature more engrossing and easy. A handful 
of sparkling novels will be of great value during 
the ten or twelve days' voyage, and will effec- 
tually divert your mind from less pleasant sub- 
jects. Then there is conversation to be carried 
on, and cards are played on the cabin tables. 

As to the purely physical side of the case, I 
think that plenty of fresh air is the best antidote 
to nausea, and in order to get this you must keep 
on deck, at least during dry weather. The bra- 
cing air of the sea will strengthen and invigorate 
you, but it must be immixed with odors from the 
cookery department or the oily machinery. It 
is well to pass much of the time in reading, 
chess-playing, or other mind-absorbing and eye- 
engaging occupations. If you watch the rolling 
of the ship, as shown by the rapid rising and 
sinking of the horizon or by the broad curves 
made by the masts and yards, the effect may be 
disturbing. The suggestive sights, smells, and 
sounds which occasionally appear in the cabin 



44 Europe for 1 2 a Day. 

Avill be apt to try 3'our rctontive powers during 
the first few daj's. The bull's-eye window of the 
state-room should be kept open as long as the sea 
is quiet and no spray is flying. But if, after all, 
you arc sick in spite of every effort, the better 
way is to give it full play and have done with 
it, lying in your berth and putting yourself under 
the steward's care. I have known resolute fel- 
lows to battle down their nausea, and to remain 
half-sick and scpieamish throughout the voyage, 
when a day of total surrender to the mal da mer 
would have made them all right. After all, it 
is very beneficial physically, though temporarily 
unpleasant, and it leaves one with an amazing 
appetite. 

In the ordinary late spring and summer voy- 
ages there is but little to fear from this cause. 
The steamships are largo and steady, and pass 
quietly out over a tranquil sea. I crossed in 
such weather, and was not sick an hour ; but on 
returning, through a fierce January storm, I was 
unable to leave my berth or to eat for nine days. 
Seek the summer passage, if possible. The cabin 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 45 

tables are spread for four or five rich meals a day, 
and your appetite is usually ravenous. You will 
eat much and sleep much, and promenade the 
deck for exercise. When you reach the other 
side it will be necessary to cut loose from your 
cabin associates, or, in keeping pace with them, 
your money will vanish in a few weeks. 

5. Of Hotels and Boarding. 

The chief item of expense, and the one in 
which you must take the greatest care, is that 
of your daily bread. You will have but about 
$1.25 a day for your hotel expenses, and you 
must learn to calculate accordingly. Assuming 
that you wnll be in Europe" one year, you will 
probably spend six months of that time in 
the great cities. In any city between Edin- 
burgh and Naples you can get a small room in 
a respectable private house, with attendance, for 
$ G a month. Your breakfasts and lunches, in 
the British coffee-houses or the Continental cafes, 
will cost about 15 cents each; your dinners will 



46 Europe for $2 a Day. 

average 30 cents. I believe that one can live 
altogether safely and comfortably on 80 cents 
a day during long sojourns in the European 
cities. I lived in Florence for four weeks pleas- 
antly for $ 15. GO. My room on the Borg' Og- 
nissanti, and overlooking the gardens of a nun- 
nery, cost $ 1 a week, $ 2 went for lights and 
attendance, and the remaining $9.60 was for 
food and cigars. In London I got a good room in 
an Aldersgate coffee-house for $ 1.50 a week ; in 
Edinburgh, a large room fronting on the Univer- 
sity for $ 1.87 ; in Paris, near the Boulevard des 
Italiens, for $ 5.60 a month ; and so on. The 
first requisite is to get a neat and cheerful little 
room, in a pleasant quarter of the cit}^, and not too 
ftir from the galleries and public buildings. The 
arrangements as to lights, fires, washing, and ser- 
vice should be thoroughly understood both by 
yourself and the housekeeper, so that no after- 
disputes may arise. Then you have a centre of 
operations against the cit}', with your books on 
tiic table, your clothing unpacked, and tlie photo- 
graphs of the dear ones at home hung up on the 



Europe for 1 2 « Bay. 47 

walls. You will soon find a cafe and a restaurant 
(or, in Italy, a trattoria) where the other com- 
forts of life may be supplied. 

Thus you will have spent, in the six months 
of your life in city lodgings, about $ 146 for 
board ; and you have $ 300 left for the six 
months of provincial travel, or about $ 1.64 a day. 
Now one way in which you can make a great sav- 
ing throughout the tour, and with very little 
deprivation to yourself, is by avoiding the so-called 
tahle dlwte at the hotels. This is an immense 
dinner, occurring late in the afternoon, and cost- 
ing from 60 cents to $ 1.20. It includes wines 
and fruits, and numerous courses of soups, fish, 
and meats, and leaves a man feeling like a gorged 
anaconda. Moreover, it takes full an hour of 
your time, and is altogether a very un-American 
and unbusiness-like waste of time and opportu- 
nity, although it is a very pleasant season for 
pecunious parties who are travelling in company 
and can keep up a cheerful conversation over the 
richly laden tables. But we, you and I, can't go 
far in Europe if we affect these aldermanic din- 



48 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

iiers, and wc are not required by the customs of 
the hotels to pay for them unless we partake. So 
we can get a quiet little dinner of three courses, 
at a neighboring restaurant, for 30 cents ; and 
we have, therefore, $ 1.34 to jmy for our lodging, 
attendance, supper, and breakfast. By turning 
over the pages of Baedeker's guide-books, you will 
see that you can rest at the best of the second- 
class hotels for that amount. In this important 
item you may therefore effect a considerable saving 
of money, which can be devoted to lengthening 
the tour or to buying photographs of scenery and 
architecture. The English and Scottish inns, cen- 
turies old, neat as jewel-caskets, broad, low-roofed, 
and hospitable, with white-sanded floors and red- 
curtained windows, presided over by buxom and 
red-checked old housewives, and honored in Brit- 
ish song and story from Chaucer down to Eliot, 
generally charge but a shilling each for lodg- 
ing, supper, and breakfast ; and they give rare 
good cheer at that. The Belgian estaminet and 
the German or Swiss gadhcms will also give you 
good quarters at moderate prices ; but the Italian 



Europe for %1 a Day. 49 

locanda is too often dirty and cheerless. It is 
well to inquire the price of lodgings, etc., before 
settling down for the night. At the South-Italian 
inns of inferior grade it is prudent for you to look 
well to the door and window fastenings, and to 
secure your valuables safely. In all the ports of 
the Levant there are low-priced hotels, generally 
kept by Italians, where one can board for about 
% 1.25 a day. 

I maintain, then, that your approximate ex- 
penses for board, while travelling rapidly in Eu- 
rope, would be: for first-class, $2.25 to $3.50; 
second-class, $ 1.G4 ; and third-class, but little 
more than $ 1.25. Don't think of the latter as 
a " cheap and dirty " mode of travelling, for it is 
not. My general course was to stop at the hotels 
of the second class, but in a few trips I was forced, 
from temporary slcnderncss of funds, to visit the 
last-named grade, and rarely suffered any actual 
discomfort. The rooms are scantily furnished, 
the fare (though hearty) is plain, and the attend- 
ants require frequent drummiug up ; but neatness 
usually goes with the simplicity, and your appe- 



50 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

tite will not demand ragouts. The squalor of an 
American third-class tavern is sui generis, — totter- 
ing and dirty wooden verandas, fluffy sofa-cushions 
covered with ancient oily stains, vacant entries 
with torn and spattered paper on the walls, frowzy 
and leprous sheets, and towels of variegated 
.dirtiness, tablecloths bedraggled with gravy and 
other stains, black-bladed knives and iron forks, 
rank butter, dyspeptic bread, leathery meats, and 
the whole house saturated with the stale and sick- 
ening odors of bad tobacco and worse liquor rising 
from the dingy and brawling bar-room. Don't 
attach any such ideas to the British rural inn, 
the French auherge, the Belgian estaniinet, or the 
Germmi g a sthaus ; and the dirt and chill even of 
the lower Italian locanda have picturesque concom- 
itants, and are neither frowzy nor seedy. There 
are " Temperance Hotels " in most of the British 
cities, but they are generally cold and cheerless, 
and lead a weak and sickly life in their tenuous air 
of moral reform. (I will except the three Waverley 
Hotels of this class, in Glasgow, Edinburgh, and 
London, each of which I found warm and cheer}^, 
and well patronized.) 



Europe for $2 a Day. 51 

The " drummer," or ''commercial traveller," is as 
much a feature of European life as of American, 
and may be met everywhere. I believe that our 
drummers are better acquainted with the various 
hotels on their routes than any other class of men, 
and their transatlantic brethren have the same 
gift. If you meet any of them, on the trains or 
at your hotels, you can get the names, peculiari- 
ties, and prices of half the hotels in their respec- 
tive countries, and make out a very serviceable 
list for future use. Overflowing with anecdotes 
and full of sport, they oftentimes make pleasant 
companions for a dull rural evening. 

6. Of Railroads and their Accommodations. 

After deducting the cost of board, clothing, and 
fees, from the $ 730 appropriated for your year's 
tour, there remains about $ 150 for transportation 
expenses. Part of this amount will be used for 
carriages, diligences, and steamboats, but most of 
it will be consumed in buying railroad tickets. 
In Europe there are three classes of cars (and in 



52 Eurojye for 1 2 a Day. 

parts of Germany, a fourth, resembling cattle-cars), 
of which the first class is luxurious, the second is 
comfortable, and the third is extremely plain. 
The saying is common in Northern Europe, that 
" none but Americans, princes, and fools ride in 
the first-class cars." The first-class compartments 
are usually warmed in winter, the second-class are 
sometimes, but the third-class are left cold. The 
first and second classes arc partitioned off into 
compartments, each of which holds 8 or 10 per- 
sons, on two seats, fronting each other ; and are 
entered from the sides of the cars. The third- 
class cars are frequently built without these parti- 
tions, and their seats are not upholstered. Smok- 
ing is allowed on all the cars, except two or three 
compartments on each train, which are reserved 
for ladies. The fares on express-trains are con- 
siderably higher than on the slower trains, and 
you will generally find the latter the more satis- 
factory, as enabling you to see the country more 
leisurely. Many very respectable people travel 
third-class, and about three fourths of every train 
is composed of such cars. I do not think that 



Europe for %1 a Day. 53 

the lower classes travel so much in Europe as in 
America ; and the train-guards are usually vigi- 
lant to prevent an}^ trouble among the passengers. 
In collecting the tickets the guards pass along a 
narrow single-board platform alongside and out- 
side of the cars, appearing at each window to take 
the fares in the compartments. There is usually 
some one smoking in every third-class car (and in 
Germany clouds of smoke are often made by the 
formidable china pipes of the Teutonic voyagers), 
but there is very little tobacco-chewing, and con- 
sequently we find but few of the nauseating quali- 
ties of an American smoking-car. The presence 
also of ladies and '' religious " in these cars exerts 
somewhat of a restraining influence. You should 
get on the train as soon as it enters the station, 
in order to secure a seat by the window, for the 
sake of light, air, and the scenery. In this man- 
ner I traversed the Continent, — with the wall 
and window on one side, and on the other my va- 
lise, serving as an arm-rest and as a separation 
from other passengers. With guide-book, field- 
glass, and other conveniences at hand, wrapped in 



54 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

an overcoat if the day was chilly, beguiling long 
rides by communion with the pipe, and all the 
while observing picturesque or otherwise interest- 
ing scenery, — what could have been more snug 
and satisfactory 1 The annoying hoodlums who 
pass through our cars flinging into one's lap prize- 
packages, Ned-Buntline literature, and dyspeptic 
candy, are not seen over there ; but at many of 
the stations boj^s and women walk along the plat- 
forms wdth daintily neat baskets of fruit, sand- 
wiches, or wines, which are sold very cheaply. 
The European railroads have either more rolling- 
stock or fewer passengers than American lines, for 
their cars are rarely filled, and I have ridden for 
hundreds of miles the sole occupant of a compart- 
ment. The Americans have lately introduced 
Pullman cars on several of the main routes in 
Europe, and I should imagine that it would be 
delightful to contemplate Lake Thrasymene or 
the passes of the Juras through their broad plate- 
glass windows, reclining in luxurious easy-chairs. 
But w^e can, perhaps, get enough of plate-glass 
and upholstered luxury when we reach home ; we 
can't afford it over there. 



Europe for 1 2 a Day, 55 

You will prefer to travel by day-trains, in order 
to see the country, and to get views of the cities 
and castles that you pass. Some of the flat and 
uninteresting regions of France and Germany may 
just as well be traversed by night, in w^hich case 
(since the night-trains are but little patronized) 
you can generally lie out at full length on the 
8-foot seat, with your valise for a pillow, and an 
overcoat for a wrapper, and sleep comfortably. 

In the first-class and second-class cars one will 
find patricians and snobs, and the latter outnum- 
ber the former everywhere, about as copper coin 
outnumbers gold pieces. In the height of the 
season, on the main routes, one can hardly enter a 
second-class car without finding either Englishmen 
or Americans, the latter being as distinguished for 
their noisy conversation as the former are for 
their grim taciturnity. An increasing number of 
tourists are resorting to the third-class cars ; and 
here you will find the common people of the coun- 
try, and can study their peculiarities. The most 
interesting railroad - ride I ever took w^as from 
Alexandria to Cairo, when my companions were 



56 Europe for 1 2 a Day, 

gaunt and half-clad Arabs, dark Copts, Nubian 
soldiers, and aristocratic Moslems in brilliant robes 
and sashes. 

In making excursions by rail from a city which 
is temporarily your headquarters, you can gen- 
erally effect a considerable saving by buying 
round-trip tickets. This is especially the case 
in Great Britain, and is advantageously applied 
in visiting the outer environs of London and the 
midland and Scottish cities. 

7. Of Steamboats and their Arrangements. 

The only choice is generally between the cabin 
and the deck, which are separated by a wide 
margin of expense. If you do not go beyond 
Europe, you W'ill have but little occasion to travel 
by watei', and then, as on the Khine, the Swiss 
lakes, or the Danube, you will doubtless be better 
pleased to take a cabin-passage, so that you can 
enjoy the surrounding scenery under every advan- 
tage. But if Egypt and the East are included 
in your pilgrimage, the question of traiisi)ortation 



Europe for %1 a Day. 57 

by water becomes a serious one. You are then 
forced to take a deck-passage, or else raise your 
expenses to an alarming height. Now then for 
another bit of personal experience. I had reached 
Naples, which was the end of my tour as origi- 
nally planned, and was preparing to return up 
the Italian peninsula. But Egypt, Jerusalem, 
Constantinople, Athens, the classic isles of the 
Archipelago, tke mysterious shores of Asia Minor, 
drew me with an attraction that was absolutely 
irresistible. In order to make this extraordinary 
journey, I must practise new economies, foremost 
of which was that of travelling on deck instead 
of in the cabin. I decided to face any trials 
which might come, in order to see the ancient 
cities of the East, and I enjoyed more and learned 
more during my 18 weeks' tour in the East than 
in all the rest of my journey. I sailed 28 days 
on the Mediterranean, /Egean, and Adriatic, dur- 
ing which time the fare cost $ 45. The route 
was from Syracuse (in Sicily) to Malta, Alexan- 
dria, Beyrout, and Jaffa; from Beyrout to Smyr- 
na, Rhodes, and Constantinople ; from Constanti- 
3* 



58 Europe for $ 2 « Day. 

iiople to Syra and Athens (Pirseus) ; from Athens 
to Corinth, Corfu, and Brindisi. The journey was 
made during the winter and spring, but entailed 
no hardship, for the air was not harsh. Lying on 
the deck, with the stars overhead, a vah"se for a 
pillow, an overcoat for a wrapper, it was perfect 
poetry to feel the good ship plunging through the 
Mediterranean, to hear her cordage whistling, to 
watch the constellations, to think of the voyages 
of Jason and Ulysses, Paul and Augustine, the 
Crusaders, the Moslems, and the llhodian knights ; 
and then to be rocked into a dreamless sleep, 
awaking at dawn to find Patmos under the lee, 
or Olympus on the starboard bow. The curiosity 
and generosity of sailors will soon become appar- 
ent to you on these voyages. The captain of the 
steamship Egyptian interviewed me before we had 
been out of Malta an hour, and had my baggage 
taken to his cabin, where I remained for five days, 
giving a dubious recompense by teaching him 
the mysteries of euchre. The first officer of 
the Venus, a bluff old Dalmatian sea-wolf, was 
filled with amazement to see a young man from 



Europe for %2 a Day. 59 

the other side of the world sleeping in the cold 
night-winds off Scio and Cj^prus, and living on 
bread and cheese, just for the sake of " seeing the 
world." He offered me a place to sleep between 
decks, but I thought that the proposal had too 
much pity in it, and preferred to air my pride 
on the capstan-deck. Nowhere else can you meet 
such picturesque fellow-travellers as on the Levant 
steamers at the times of the Moslem and Chris- 
tian pilgrimages. Besides the uniformly dressed 
citizens of every nation west of the Danube, there 
were the quaint costumes and faces of almost every 
nation in Western Asia or Northern Africa, — 
brilliantly dressed Hungarians and Greeks, shab- 
by Russian pilgrims, savage Koords, fur-crowned 
Persians, long-robed Armenians, saturnine Copts, 
prosperous Turks, and Arabs and Syrians of 
various tribes. All these were on deck, pro- 
vided with carpets and rugs on which they sat 
cross-legged, passing the day in smoking slowly 
from great narghilehs, or in drinking black cof- 
fee from diminutive cups. The Christians spent 
much time with their rosaries and breviaries, and 



60 Europe for 1 2 a Day. 

five times a day the Moslems arranged their car- 
pets and made long prayers, bowing toward Mecca 
with unerring accuracy. The only apparently 
irreligious people on board were the cultured 
Britons and Americans in the cabin, who watched 
the fearless prayers of the Orientals with patron- 
izing pity. 

8. Of Baggage. 

To travel through Europe with a trunk would 
greatly increase your expenses and anxieties. You 
should get a light, strong valise, well made and 
secure, and of some stiff substance, in order that 
fragile things may not be broken by outside press- 
ure. Such a valise will also serve better for an 
arm-rest in the cars, a writing-table on the steam- 
ers, or a pillow (since it will not torment jonv 
head with the protuberances of the packing). It 
is imperatively necessary that it shall be kept 
light, for you will sometimes have to carry it a 
long way to find a hotel. If you only intend to 
spend a few hours in a city, it is best to leave it 
with the baggage-master at the station, who will 



Europe for 1 2 « Bay. 61 

take care of it for a small fee. The system of 
checking baggage is unknown in Euroije, and your 
impedimenta can only be sent from point to point 
by having it marked. This mode of despatch is 
uncertain and insecure, and it will be much safer 
to carry your baggage with you. I lost my valise 
at Brussels, and only recovered it eight months 
later, at Florence, after sending many letters and 
telegrams. When you have accumulated several 
pounds of old guide-books, souvenirs, and photo- 
graphs, it is best to make them into a bundle 
which may be sent home, or to your banker in 
London, to be called for on your return. I de- 
spatched three boxes of superfluous items of this 
character, on Boston ships sailing from Mediterra- 
nean ports, and thus kept in light marching order. 
An extra pound or two of baggage will especially 
tell against you on a j^edestrian tour. In such a 
journey you should express your valise to the city 
where you propose to end the walk, and content 
yourself with a few necessaries carried in a light 
game-bag slung haversack-wise over the shoulder. 
The heavy and capacious knapsacks, once so popu- 



G2 Europe for $2 a Day. 

lar among pedestrians, have been discarded, to a 
great extent, as cumbrous, ungraceful, and weari- 
some to the shoulders. You will not need a large 
supply of linen, as you can' have such clothing 
done up and returned in twelve hours, at the 
hotels ; and as to the outer garments, you would 
probably carry no duplicates. 

Baggage is of course examined at every frontier, 
by the custom-house officers, but the inspection is 
usually of the most superficial character, and will 
not detain you five minutes. It is prudent to 
Iiave your valise open when you reach the frontier- 
station, because if you cause the officers delay and 
trouble they will be apt to reciprocate, and they 
are quite able to do so. 

9. About Money ^ and how to carry it. 

I would strongly advise the tourist to carry his 
money in the form of a letter of credit. By this 
means, you can draw whatever sums you need, in 
almost any city of Europe or the Levant, and do 
not run the risk of losing mucli ready money. If 



Europe for 1 2 a Day. 63 

you cliance to lose the letter you can stop its pay- 
ment by prompt action. Your letters can also be 
sent to you at the bankers' offices in the cities of 
your destination, where they will be held for you, 
or remailed at your order. There are also various 
small courtesies which you can get through the 
bankers, and which sometimes prove quite valua- 
ble. 1 have known men to take out enough 
money for a month's expenses, making arrange- 
ments to have more forwarded to them from 
America when they should need it ; and those 
poor fellows have had to wait for weeks, in utter 
idleness, in the remote cities where they had 
oi'dered their drafts sent, on account of some mis- 
calculations. Of such was I, who was, by such 
accidents, compelled to pass forty-five hours in 
London without a morsel to eat, to dwell in Jeru- 
salem three weeks with less than a dollar in my 
purse, and to live for five weeks, in Florence, on 
$18. I have seen Americans reduced to prac- 
tical beggary by the non-arrival (in due time) 
of money, and one always has a feeling of vague 
uneasiness until his new draft arrives. It is 



64 , Uurojje for ^ 2 a Day. 

tlicrcfore better for the tourist to raise all the 
money he can, and buy a letter of credit of some 
reputable banker. 

In passing from one country to another, try to 
avoid carrying any money of the first into the 
second, for heavy discounts are sometimes charged. 
The English sovereign and the French twenty- 
franc piece are good throughout Europe and the 
East, — the latter being the most widely knowui. 
The paper currencies of Austria and Italy are 
especially difficult to negotiate in other countries. 

Your mone}^ will generall}^ be in coin, and 
should be carefully guarded. You will sometimes 
sleep in the cars, and sometimes in other public 
places, or will be entangled in large crowds. The 
thieves and pickpockets of the Continental nations 
are reported to be less dexterous than their Anglo- 
American brethren, but it is as well to be on )''our 
guard, in view of the distress to which you would 
be reduced by losing your money. The best safe- 
guard is a small pocket on the inside of your un- 
dershirt, buttoning at the top, and firmly sewed. 
On retiring at night, and sometimes in dangerous 



Europe for $ 2 a Dcnj. 65 

places by day, you can put your watch and purse 
into this receptacle, whence they cannot be drawn 
without your knowledge. It is of course always 
important to have a sufficiency of small silver and 
copper coins in your pocket to meet current de- 
mands. 

Above all, don't go to Europe until you have 
enough money in hand to make a satisfactory tour, 
and don't remain there until you have n't enough 
left to get home with. There are many Americans 
now in Europe who have gone there without cer- 
tain resources or definite purposes, and who have 
become unprincipled adventurers. Others, too 
proud or too honorable for such courses, yearning 
for a sight of the Old World, yet unable to see 
their way clear to visit it comfortably, and hoping 
that something might turn up there, have crossed 
the ocean only to meet with sufferings and humili- 
ations which they never can forget, and to return 
home in ignominy. American consuls and resi- 
dents in the Italian cities have told me piteous 
stories of the scores of friendless and penniless 

E 



66 Europe for %'l a Day. 

countrymen who have appeared (vainly) before 
them; and many a cultured but improvident 
youth has left America full of hope and with all 
the divine poetry of life in his heart, and has been 
sent back working before the mast among the 
brutal sailors of some Mediterranean petroleum- 
ship. It is only a few weeks since an American 
charitable society in Paris sent to our shores 
several penniless and suffering compatriots, and 
numerous others were sujDpliants for a like com- 
passion. But before even such relief as the fore- 
castle-passage or the steerage-ticket comes, what 
insults and neglect, what heart-sinking and physi- 
cal deprivations, must one suffer. And even such 
aid cannot always be had (for our people abroad 
have been sorely taxed by their waifs and strays), 
and then you are left — to starve, perhaps. Better 
remain for a lifetime in some prosy but peaceful 
New England Naguadavick. 



It is important to remember that the prices of 
the necessities of life — food, clothing, etc. — have 



Europe for $2 a Bay. 67 

risen very much in Europe since the costly wars 
of 1866 and 1870. Nearly all Western Europe 
was engaged in either or both of these wars, and 
the resultant taxation meets you in hotel bills, 
railroad fares, and everything else. The experi- 
ences of Bayard Taylor, Ralph Keeler, and others 
will therefore be of no value to you in indicating 
your possible expenses. The hotels, etc., on the 
main routes of travel have also been encouraged 
to raise their rates by the lavish and gratified ex- 
penditures of a certain class of wealthy Americans 
and British manufacturers. 



10. Of Buying Goods Wiseli/. 

The main thing to do in buying goods is to 
conceal your nationality. Assume the provincial 
and drawling London idiom of the great Anglo- 
American language, and interject the irrelevant 
but rigidly Anglican "Yon know" and "D'ye 
see " into your sentences. The nearer approach 
you can make to the local languages while on the 
Continent, the cheaper you can get goods. The 



G8 FAtrope for %1 a Day. 

British and German shopkeepers need generally 
to be watched, because they will take advantage 
of you if they can (just as we do of each other, 
when we get a chance). I believe that the retail 
merchants of London and Berlin are as straight- 
forward as those of New York and Boston. But 
in Paris and Vienna you must be continually on 
your guard against the most outrageous gouges, 
conducted, too, by the most bland and seductive 
salesmen. In Italy and the Levant mercantile 
rapacity becomes truly formidable, and the shop- 
men of the towns rival the banditti of the hills. 
In Naples, Cairo, or Constantinople you will be 
charged three or four times the true value of 
goods ; and since even that exaggerated sum is less 
than the prices of similar articles in the United 
States, many of our express-train tourists are under 
the impression that they are getting bargains. The 
best mode of procedure is to find the real value of 
the things you wish to buy, and then offer that 
amount, regardless of the dealer's exorbitant de- 
mand, and refusing to compromise. He will scout 
the idea of reducing his price, will display the 



Europe for %1 a Day. 69 

goods ill the best light, will accuse you of trying 
to ruin his family, and will come down slowly, a 
franc at a time. By the time you have become 
thoroughly irritated and turn to leave the shop, 
he will wrap up the articles, with a resigned and 
reproachful air, and will take your offer and a 
clear profit of 20 or 30 per cent. The Mediterra- 
nean traders must take us for a nation of princes 
or of fools, for they would fairly empty our purses 
for their trumpery laces and jewelry, if we did not 
watch them closely. My comrade and myself vis- 
ited a silk-shop in the Constantinople Bazaar, and 
laid out a small lot of trifles in Persian and Turk- 
ish wares. The dealer added up their prices and 
stated that they came to 700 francs, but, in con- 
sideration, etc., he would put the bill at 650 
francs. We offered 150 francs, and for a while 
it seemed as if that Oriental merchant was either 
about to commit hari-kari or to offer us up as a 
grateful sacrifice to his Prophet. We protested 
that we had n't money to throw away in such a 
manner ; but he answered, with Eastern imagery, 
"When Americans have no monej^ the sea will 



70 Europe for ^2 a Day. 

have 110 water " (which seems to be the general 
behef around the Midland Sea). After about an 
hour of contest between Turkish volubility and 
Anglo-Saxon imperturbability, he wrapped up the 
goods for our price, and we were afterwards as- 
sured by old Constantinopolitans that he had 
beaten us out of 50 francs, even then. The coral 
jewellers of Naples, the mother-of-pearl dealers of 
Jerusalem, the Cairene bazaar-merchants, all carry 
on business in the same manner. Guides, drag- 
omans, escorts, and even hotel-keepers do the 
same, and more than once have I ridden through 
Syrian villages with revolver in hand, followed 
by a hundred howling Arabs, because I would 
not pay Tremont-House prices for the privilege 
of having slept on a stone floor, upholstered with 
fleas, and a breakfast of sanded bread and sour 
goat's-milk. 

11. Of Clothing. 

Of course you will dress plainly and well, with 
constant care to be adapted to the weather wher- 
ever you may be. For a year's use you will need 



Europe for 1 2 a Bay. 71 

two suits and a comfortable overcoat, all of which 
you can get for % 60, together with a sufficiency of 
other clothing, linen, etc. The most serviceable 
material is the gray or brown cheviot or tweed, 
which you can get to great advantage in Edin- 
burgh or London. A good suit of this material 
will be made to your order for from $ 10 to 
$ 15, and will wear like iron. For the travel- 
ler, and especially for the pedestrian, the pea- 
jacket is much more serviceable than a coat of 
any other shape. It should be made with several 
pockets, one of which should be large enough to 
contain a guide-book. In your rambles about the 
European cities and Syrian rural districts, you 
will want to carry your guide-book, note-book, 
pipe-case, opera-glass (revolver sometimes), and 
you will of course wish to keep your hands free. 
The presence of a guide-book in your hand will 
often subject you to serious annoyance (especially 
in the Mediterranean countries), for it will draw 
down the importunities of scores of would-be 
guides, commissionaires J and vociferous beggars. 
You can usually recognize new tourists, British 



72 Europe for %2 a Day. 

or American, by the red books in their hands or 
the field-glass strapped on their backs. In this 
regard, as well as in others, the nearer you can 
make your personal appearance coincide with that 
of the natives, the less you will be annoyed by 
the classes who live by preying on travellers. In 
Switzerland you will see artistic mountain cos- 
tumes, belted shooting-jackets, leggins, hobnailed 
shoes, etc., even on the downy-lipped Anglican 
youth whose highest ascent is from the hotel 
ballroom to his sixth-story bedroom. In the 
Mediterranean countries most tourists (during 
the hot seasons) wear veils of blue or white 
muslin wreathed about their hats, to deaden the 
attack of the sun's rays. These veils are artis- 
tically arranged, and make a pretty piece of mil- 
linery for the " nice young fellow " class of men. 

12. Of Photographs for Mementos. 

You cannot spend the same amount of money 
more advantageously than in the purchase of 
photographs of scenery, buildings, and statuary. 



Europe for %1 a Day. 73 

Stereoscopic views are especially to be commended 
as souvenirs, on account of the vividness with 
which they bring back the actual appearance of 
things, not picture-like, but standing out in ap- 
parent relief. There is nothing which aids your 
memories of the Old World so well as these 
pictures, by whose help you may revisit the 
cherished scenes which you would not forget. 
Sometimes, when you have grown weary of the 
restless whirl of American life and its annihilat- 
ing activities, you can take your pictures and 
diaries, on a quiet Sunday afternoon, and quickly 
forget the rasping demands and worrying compe- 
titions of trade. I brought home over 700 pic- 
tures (mostly stereoscopic vieW's), representing 
every country between Scotland and Armenia, 
and they enable me to take many a cosey and 
inexpensive little tour abroad, though my physi- 
cal self does not stir from its snug quarters near 
Boston Common. 

In some parts of Europe photographs are ex- 
pensive, but in Italy, at least, they are good and 
cheap. G. W. Wilson, of Aberdeen, Scotland, 
4 



74 Europe for $ 2 a Day, 

makes the richest and most artistic views I have 
ever seen. They are of British subjects, and cost 
about $ 3 a dozen. You should not fail to get a 
few of his stereogi'aphs of the Scottish lakes and 
the English cathedrals. There are shops on St. 
Mark's Square, at Venice, where the most beau- 
tiful Venetian and North-Italian views are ex- 
hibited in great variety and at very reasonable 
prices. Giorgio Sommer, of Naples, has the lar- 
gest assortment of views of Central and Southern 
Italy, bright in tone and skilful in disposition. 
He has thousands of different stereographs, rep- 
resenting the palaces, churches, monuments, ruins, 
and museum-curiosities of the cities, and the finest 
bits of natural scenery. His price is 80 cents a 
dozen. Constantin (of Athens) has the best 
assortment of Athenian and Grecian views. I 
met with no really pleasing pictures of Syrian 
or Egyptian buildings and scenery ; and Dumas, 
the French photographer at Beyrout, assured me 
that the peculiar characters of the air and light 
render it impossible to get satisfactory effects. 
It is safe to be somewhat suspicious of the 



Europe for %1 a Day. 75 

cheap lots of photographs which you will fre- 
quently meet, especially at Rome and Paris. 
Sometimes, after you have had such pictures a 
year or two, they will begin to fade and grow 
blurred, or will assume a disagreeable reddish 
tint, indicating that the finishing processes were 
not properly performed. 

IS. Of Circulating Libraries, Cheap Boohs, etc. 

Circulating libraries may be found in many of 
the chief cities, where you can have access to 
a large assortment of English books, generally 
in the domain of light literature. By paying 
a small sum weekly or monthly and leaving a 
security deposit, you can have the privilege of 
taking books home. Many times, after days of 
hard work at sight-seeing, you will not feel any 
enthusiasm over the idea of going home to 
WTite or study ; nor have you energy enough 
to go out to the theatre or other entertainments. 
It is then quite pleasant to settle down in a 
cosey chair and read some bright novel or inter- 



76 Europe for $2 a Day. 

esting book of travels. On stormy and tempest- 
uous days, also, when the mind is sometimes too 
much chilled to work, you can often save yourself 
from the blues by becoming absorbed in con- 
genial light reading. You can also get many 
valuable ideas by consulting the books of travels 
and history relative to the countries which you 
are next about to visit. Among the libraries to 
which I became a subscriber were those of Galig- 
nani, at Paris j Piale, at Rome ; two very good 
ones in Florence and Milan; and Shapira, at 
Jerusalem. The latter has a large collection of 
the Tauchnitz reprints of British w^orks, and 
they will stand you in good stead in a city 
where it is always very uncomfortable and often 
perilous to go out after dark. 

Yon can also buy almost any kind of books at 
the second-hand shops for a mere trifle, and, since 
you onl}^ care to read them and then throw them 
away, this mode of acquisition will often be use- 
ful. The riverfront of the Latin Quarter, at 
Paris, is lined with such shops, where scores of 
thousands of volumes are displayed, with marked 



Europe for $ 2 a Bay, 77 

prices ; and, if you care to pull over books amid 
which constant surprises await you, you may 
spend many pleasant hours on the quays of the 
Seine. There are similar shops in the German 
and Italian cities, where great bargains may often 
be made. My comrade bought the four illus- 
trated volumes of Eustace's " Classical Tour of 
Italy," at a book-stall in Naples, for fifty cents. 

The shilling editions of the British classic au- 
thors may also be of great service to you, filling 
up many an otherwise idle or dismal hour with 
pleasant thoughts drawn from the best sources. 
They are compact and in fine print, unsuitable 
for railroad reading, yet very good companions on 
a sea or lake voyage. 

But you should be careful not to read too 
much. While light literature is such a pleasant 
friend during otherwise idle hours, it often fasci- 
nates one into encroachments on more valuable 
time. The works of Thackeray in Mr. Shapira's 
library beguiled me into spending many precious 
morning hours over their sparkling pages. I 
indeed saw all of Jerusalem and its environs tw^o 



78 Euroin for %2 a Day. 

or three times over j but if that hbrary had not 
been there I sliould have seen it four or five 
times over. Every gate and street would then 
have been permanently impressed in memory, and 
I could have read "Vanity Fair" just as well at 
Nahant. I bought Oliver Goldsmith's complete 
works at Malta for twenty-five cents, and enjoyed 
them very much for two months or more ; but I 
read " The Citizen of the World " with absorbing 
interest while our steamer was passing through 
the Greek Archipelago, and doubtless lost the 
sight of several interesting islands. Thus I 
gave up mauy hours to irrelevant reading which 
should have been devoted to careful observa- 
tion, and you will do the same if you don't look 
out. 

Neivspapers. — The chief papers of England and 
Scotland are nearly as good as those of New York 
and Boston; but the Continental press is less 
ably conducted. The jiapers are small and very 
numerous, and their prices are low. You will be 
interested in reading them, to get an idea of 
European politics and national questions. lu 



Europe for 1 2 a Day. 79 

Paris the extremes of the scale are VOrdre (Bo- 
napartist) and Le Rappel (communist) ; and in 
Rome, La Roma Gapitale (radical) is confronted 
by Z' Osservatore Romano (Papal). Very little 
mention is ever made of American affairs, — not 
more, for instance, than the New York papers 
give to Uruguay or Newfoundland. There are 
several papers published on the Continent for 
the benefit of Anglo-American tourists (American 
Register, Stviss Times, etc.), from which you can 
glean many useful items and interesting summa- 
ries of American events. 

14- Of American Consuls and their Powers. 

Many people think that the powers and re- 
sources of American consuls are far more exten- 
sive than they really are. For instance, if you 
are out of money and wish pecuniary aid or to be 
sent home, your first thought, induced no doubt 
by incorrect information previously received, is of 
the American consul, and you may hope great 
things from his aid. In point of fact, however. 



80 Europe for %1 a Bay. 

there is no fund or provision made by our govern- 
ment for any such cases, and its officers can there- 
fore do nothing ex officio. Our diplomatic agents 
generally get small salaries, and are men of slen- 
der estate, and can rarely aid strangers on their 
own account, especially in view of the number of 
Americans who are dead-heading through Europe. 
Sometimes, in the ports of the sea, consuls can 
assist empty-handed compatriots to get opportuni- 
ties to work their passage home, but even this is 
a slender chance. 

Many of the consuls are pleasant and gentle- 
manly persons, a fact which is somewhat remark- 
able, in view of the manner in which the civil and 
diplomatic service of the United States is con- 
ducted. But the salaries paid to our agents in 
the minor ports and cities are too small to render 
them objects of desire for the ward-room politi- 
cians who expect rewards, and hardly enough to 
pay for the wear and tear of the bunting over the 
official doors. 

The consuls in some of the chief cities are 
continiially annoyed by Americans who make the 



Europe for |2 « Day. 81 

most extraordinary requests of them, — that they 
would find missing baggage, aid them in securing 
lodgings, force extortionate bills to be cut down, 
and other absurd things. The actual and obliga- 
tory duties of the chief consuls are onerous enough 
to occupy all their time, without foisting extra 
labors upon them. Most of these things are such 
as do not enter into their regular duties, and are 
usually spoken of as extra-official courtesies. The 
consuls, by their knowledge of the languages and 
customs of the countries to which they are accred- 
ited, may often be of great service to you with 
little trouble on their part, but it is better to 
avoid intruding too many of your petty griev- 
ances upon their notice. Two or three of these 
gentlemen told me that they received their great- 
est annoyance from American ladies, who seemed 
to regard them as father, brother, husband, and 
son united, and ex officio. The latest American 
newspapers may generally be found at the con- 
sulates, and in many of the minor cities you will 
find diplomatic agents with whom you can pass 
pleasant hours of social intercourse. 

4* F 



82 Europe for %'l a Bay. 

15. Of Fees and Gratuities. 

Under this head will come one of your most 
formidable lines of expense. Fees are demanded 
everywhere, — at picture-galleries, museums, pal- 
aces, cascades, veiled pictures in churches, tombs, 
ruins, — almost every object of interest is sealed 
unless you can pay a fee to some janitor or custo- 
dian. You may have read the gi-and appeal made 
by Oliver Goldsmith to the British government 
that this tax might be abolished in Westminster 
Abbey, but it was in vain ; you still have to pay 
a beggarly sixpence in order to visit the tombs of 
the British kings. It costs 87 cents to explore 
St. Paul's Cathedral in London ; $ 1.87 to see the 
curiosities in the Cologne Cathedral ; $ 1.12 at the 
Aix-la-Chapelle Cathedral ; and so on. Many of 
these fees are in the nature of gratuities, whose 
bestowal is purely voluntary; but you will feel 
very uncomfortable if you omit them, provided 
you are endowed with ordinary pride and sense 
of generosity. In the early part of my tour I re- 
solved to economize by withholding some of the 



Europe for %'l a Day. 83 

unenforced fees from these pam2:)ered guardians of 
the pubhc treasures. My first and last attempt 
in this direction was at Chester Cathedral, where 
I alone, of a party of six, omitted to give the 
verger a gratuity. His complex look of astonish- 
ment, sorrow, pity, and mild resentment haunted 
me for months, and prevented any future attempt 
of a similar character. Always after that I paid 
the prices as stated in the Baedeker guide-books. 
You w^ill not have time enough to visit all the 
picture-galleries, museums, church - towers, and 
tombs, and many of them wdll not repay you, be- 
ing similar to so many others which you have seen. 
It will always be an important question, whoso 
decision will require much study of guide-books, 
as to which of the sights of a given city or coun- 
try you shall visit, and which you shall pass by. 
The limits of your time will force you to ignore 
many of these attractions, and as for others, they 
lack distinctive features of interest to demand 
your attention. Out of a dozen galleries in Vien- 
na, you may not care to explore more than two or 
three, for the others will be found to contain what, 



84 J^urope for $ 2 a Day. 

to an unprofessional eye, are not more attractive 
than so many duplicate pictures. In Paris you 
can pay fees at the Arc de I'Etoile, the Tour St. 
Jacques, the Column Vendome, or the Pantheon 
dome in order to get a view of the city, — but one 
of these points is quite sufficient to give you the 
desired panorama. And so throughout the tour, 
you will be forced to exercise continual discretion 
as to how best to utilize your time as well as 
money. The custom of feeing has become such a 
fixture that it cannot be disregarded, and it has 
some foundation in equity, withal. I should say 
that $ 75 would be a very moderate estimate for 
this item of expense during the year. If you have 
one or more companions, the cost is much reduced, 
as the janitors find it as easy to conduct a small 
party as a single person. 

16. Of Companions. 

The expense of two comrades is much less than 
double that of one person, because they can divide 
the cost of guides, fees, carriages, rooms, and 



Europe for %1 a Day. 85 

many other needful things. They also afford 
much assistance and oftentimes protection to each 
other, and can confederate their strength, strategy, 
or money in frequent instances. But the main 
value of a comrade is for society, for fraternal in- 
tercourse, while in a land of strangers. You can 
scarcely imagine how heavily a sense of solitude 
and loneliness will sometimes settle down on the 
unattended traveller in foreign cities, obscuring 
the glories of art and architecture, and rendering 
life miserable. The acutest forms of nostalgia 
will oftentimes ensue, depriving the victim of am- 
bition and hope, and directing all his thoughts 
back on America. But where two young men 
can travel together, cheering and inciting each 
other, planning and working in unison, there is 
far less danger of the attacks of homesickness. 
The thoughts of home will come as a sweet mem- 
ory or a bright anticipation, but no longer as a 
devouring malady. 

Comrades should be congenial in many points, 
and equally matched in powers of endurance. It 
would be well if they had been previously inti- 



86 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

mate, either in the same social circles, or in the 
same college-classes, so that they might have 
points of common interest and memory. Deliver 
yourself from a young man who is betrothed or 
has lately been married, for these gentry are 
apt to have melancholy spells, and to indulge in 
frequent wishes that Sophronia were with them. 
They are also liable to cut off their journey in 
mid-career and to hasten home at all speed. I 
had three such for temporary comrades, but they 
all fell away, more attracted by the memory of a 
gossamer robe 5,000 miles away than by all the 
regalia and palaces of Europe. I also travelled, 
at different times, with several gentlemen of ma- 
turer matrimonial experience, but they seemed in 
no manner of hurry to shorten their tour from 
family considerations. 

Having made out a careful (but flexible) plan of 
tour, it will not always be easy for two comrades 
to agree on its details, even to the days' rambles 
in the cities. A generous sjjirit of concession on 
both sides must then be cultivated, but it should 
not be carried too fjxr, in causing you to neglect 



Europe for 1 2 a Day. 87 

important objects of interest. I have still to re- 
gret having lost the sight of more than a score of 
interesting cities by conforming to the solicitations 
of travelling companions. My taste for exploring 
remote provincial towns and sequestered rural 
valleys was not shared by any one whom I met, 
and I was finally obliged to cut loose from my 
friends in several cases, leaving them in the me- 
tropolis, w^hile 1 rambled through the outer dis- 
tricts. After a brief tour in Scotland, I separated 
from the friend who had crossed the ocean with 
me, since his tastes led him to Germany and my 
aspirations were for Italy. Afterwards I had vari- 
ous American companions, met by chance on the 
way, with whom most of the tour was passed. 
Among them was a Puritan clergyman of the old 
school, from the hill-countiy of Massachusetts ; a 
merry secularist from the Middle States, who had 
built a railroad in Germany, and was endeavoring 
to secure a contract from the Italian government 
to unbury Pompeii ; a Confederate refugee, self- 
exiled, because he w^ould not live in America 
" under a military despotism " ; and a Scottish 



88 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

soldier of fortune, who had lived twenty-eight 
years away from the British Isles, and hud been 
tutor to the Roumanian princes, and a resident in 
Algiers and Tunis. We only parted company when 
he secured a position as preceptor to the children 
of the Prince of the Lebanon, in a grim old castle- 
palace far back among the mountains. So you will 
meet many interesting people, rare types of char- 
acter, whose study will afford unceasing interest. 

I have heard old travellers say that one of the 
best modes of insuring economy is to avoid Amer- 
icans, and there is much force in the remark. 
Especially if you meet comj)atriots wdth full 
purses, will your expenditures be increased ; for 
if you like them, you will be tempted to travel 
as they do. The inexplicable pride which is the 
bane of our society, leading on to lavish expendi- 
tures from slender purses in order to keep up 
appearances, will manifest itself in your inter- 
course with wealthier compatriots abroad. If you 
associate with them, there will be many an item 
of carriage-hire, first-class hotel bill, jewelry, and 
articles of luxury, whose record in your cash- 



Europe for |2 a Day, 89 

account will make you wince. I travelled with a 
pecunious young New-Yorker among the North- 
Italian lakes at the rate of $ 5 a day ; and was , 
unfortunate enough to become acquainted with 
an officer of the Coldstream Guards, while making 
the tour of the Alsace-Lorraine battle-fields, and 
increased my expenses threefold. You can scarcely 
ask these born-to-the-purple youths to travel in 
your frugal way ; of course you would scorn to 
accept any aid of a pecuniary character from 
them ; and you cannot afford to go in their man- 
ner, — so it is best to avoid them on long tours. 
If you have a small party of kindred spirits and 
equal resources, you can enjoy the very best phase 
of foreign life ; but here again you must beware, 
lest you become a little America among your- 
selves, and neglect to study the people and phe- 
nomena among which you are placed. My com- 
rade and myself wei-e urged to visit a certain club 
in Rome, on the ground that we would see many 
Americans there. " See Americans ! " answered 
bluff old Stuart. *' I can see enough of them at 
home. I am here to see Romans." In the chief 



90 Europe for %'l a Day, 

European cities there are complete microcosms of 
Anglo-American society, and if you are drawn into 
their quiet circles, you will have a very pleasant 
time, but will miss the object for which you crossed 
the ocean. 

17. Of Pedestrian Tours. 

Pedestrian tours are a costly mode of travelling, 
yet they bring you nearer to the life of the people, 
and into closer communion with nature. They are 
also valuable for the physical training which they 
give you, and the resulting powers of endurance. 
I think that the very perfection of travelling is to 
pass on foot through a picturesque and historic 
country, among hospitable people, and in fair and 
pleasant weather. The quick and elastic step, the 
lovely views from breezy hills and the bright, un- 
expected vistas, the castle-crowned bluff and the 
dell w^ith its ruined Gothic abbey, the long noon- 
day rest at a coscy wayside inn and the glorious 
appetite for dinner, the afternoon with its sur- 
prises and joys, — surely the most inspiring way 
to travel is that of the pedestrian, the saunterer. 



Europe for %1 a Day. 91 

Thoreaii, the prince of American ramblers, claims 
that " saunterer " is derived from Sainte Terre, or 
" Holy Land," whence a sainte-terrer, in the early 
days, was a pilgrim towards Palestine ; or else from 
sans terre, meaning *' without land," and expressing 
the careless and joyous life of the rambler. With 
your little store of linen, books, etc., in a haversack 
by your side, a light, strong staff in hand, and soft, 
neatly fitting shoes on your feet, you are ready for 
the road or the forest. It is best to commence 
slowly, in order to toughen the lower muscles and 
harden the feet gradually. Ten or twelve miles a 
day is quite enough at first, and may be slowly in- 
creased to twenty-eight or thirty. I commenced, a 
thin-limbed, pale-faced college-boy, at six miles a 
day, and in a few weeks could pace off thirty-five 
miles a day without difficulty, and was finely 
bronzed by the sun and wind. The six-miles-an- 
hour gait of professional pedestrians is not suitable 
for the rambler. I think that about twenty miles 
a day is quite enough, for then you will have 
ample time and strength for side-excursions, clam- 
berings over the hills, and long rests in pleasant 



92 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

nooks. You should rise by five o'clock, in sum- 
mer, and walk two hours before breakfast, in the 
cool and freshness of the morning, when the dew 
is on the grass and the early birds arc singing. 
(I never could muster courage enough to start on 
my rambles before eight o'clock, but the above 
rule is a valuable one, notwithstanding.) Your 
noonday repast should be light, leaving the chief 
meal for the evening, after the walk is ended. It 
is not advisable to talk with the men you may 
meet walking on the road (at least in England), 
for they are apt to be " lewd fellows of the baser 
sort," of the genus "tramp." During the sum- 
mer, however, there are hundreds of little squads 
of university-men, and even of gentlemen with 
ladies, sauntering about the Scottish Highlands, 
and they are generally pleasant people. 

AVhen I was going on board the steamship, at 
New York, I bought nine of Walter Scott's novels, 
and a history of Scotland, to beguile the tedium 
of the voyage, and tlieir perusal so fascinated me 
with Scotland that I walked over six hundred 
miles within its borders. I enjoyed this ramble so 



Europe for 1 2 a Day. 



much that I passed across the border to the Cum- 
berland lakes, where I roamed about for ten daj^s, 
amidst beautiful scenery and rich memories. Then 
ensued a long pedestrian tour in fair Warwickshire, 
every hour of which was precious. Time failed me 
to make projected tours of this character in Nor- 
mandy, the Tyrol, and Tuscany, but I explored the 
Rhineland on foot, and similarly visited all the en- 
virons of Jerusalem, from Adullam to Gibeon, and 
from Jaffa to Bethany. 

In Germany you can still travel on foot very 
cheaply by assuming the disguise of a hand- 
iverJcer (as described by Bayard Taylor in " Views 
a-Foot "), and there are many beautiful and pic- 
turesque districts in the south and west. Nor- 
mandy, Brittany, and Savoy, with the Pyrenees 
departments, are the best walking-ground in 
France. Tuscany and the Italian lake-country 
afford most fascinating districts, — perhaps the 
best accessible in Europe, for the numerous brig- 
ands of Central and Southern Italy and Sicily 
render a ramble there a matter of some danger. 
For the same reason Greece is unsuited for pedes- 



94 Europe for %'l a Day. 

trian journeys, and Palestine is also very inse- 
cure. 

But Switzerland affords the best possible ground 
for a long tour on foot, where you are constantly 
in the presence of the most noble natural scenery. 
You will meet frequent parties of Anglo-Americans 
and Germans rambling through this region, and 
can form profitable alliances with them. Many 
ladies also join these expeditions, attired in short 
and serviceable costumes, and wielding their alpen- 
stocks with charming dexterity. Throughout the 
mountain-districts there are frequent cheap and 
cosey inns, situated oftentimes amid the grandest 
scenery, and affording good centres for side-excur- 
sions. Especially applicable to the pedestrian here 
is the Italian adage : Chi va jnano, va sano ; e chi va 
sano, va lontano ("He who goes slowl}', goes in good 
health ; and he who goes healthily, goes a great 
ways "). 

18. Of Gidde-Bools. 

The choice of these useful companions is a 
matter of the greatest importance to the success 



Europe for %1 a Day. 95 

of your tour. In Great Britain there is a series 
called Black's " Picturesque Tourists " (of Scotland, 
of Ireland, etc.), from which you can get the best 
general idea of each of the three kingdoms. Mur- 
ray's guides to the counties are bulky and expen- 
sive, but are full of richness and historic infor- 
mation. If you intend to remain a long time 
in London, you will find Murray's handbook the 
best ; though there is a useful book, by Mr. Pas- 
coe, lately published by Lee and Shepard, which 
gives valuable practical hints about the great 
metropolis, and is especially adapted for the use 
of Americans. (The price is $ 1.) 

There are several series of Continental guide- 
books published in Paris and in Germany, but the 
usual choice of American travellers is between 
those of Baedeker and Murray. The former are 
practical, concise, comprehensive, pocketable, and 
thoroughly reliable ; the latter abound in historic 
and legendary narrations, and are somewhat 
bulky. The Baedekers are about one half the size 
of the Murraj^s, but by skilful arrangements of 
type they contain nearly as much matter, while 



96 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

their method of arrangement is much more favor- 
able to compactness. The maps and city-plans in 
the Baedeker scries are the most accurate and 
beautiful that can be found anywhere, and very 
numerous, the " Southern Germany " alone having 
fifty-five maps and plans. I have frequently left 
the railroad depot in cities like Hanover, Lyons, 
or Perugia, having two or three hours in which to 
see their chief attractions, and have gone unerr- 
ingly to them in due succession by the aid of 
the Baedeker plans. These books also give lists of 
the hotels and restaurants in each city, with their 
respective prices; the rates of fare by all classes ; 
the names of the most reliable guides, with their 
prices ; the diligence routes, fares, and distances ; 
and every other particular necessary to the trav- 
eller. History and biography also receive a large 
space, and every important event is noted, but 
not in a diffuse manner. Several of the volumes 
are preceded by powerfully compressed and rich 
essaj'S on the art or geology, the vintages, or the 
history of the countries to which they relate. By 
the aid of the Baedeker guides you can estimate 



Europe for %1 a Day, 97 

all your expenses and the time necessary for any 
given trip, even to the gratuities which the ser- 
vants expect. The great virtue of these books is 
their reliability, since they are kept up even with 
the times, by frequent and careful revisions. If I 
was travelling in Europe with plenty of money I 
should have both Baedeker's and Murray's guides ; 
but if I could have only one, it would be Bae- 
deker's. If you get them before leaving America, 
you can lay out your tour to great advantage, and 
form some idea of its probable cost. 

When in Bome you should certainly get Mur- 
ray's handbook to that city, for it is a perfect 
treasury of information, and makes a valuable 
reference-book. Murray's Eastern guide-books are 
the best that can be found, and you will enjoy 
them if you visit the Levant. The handbook to 
Egypt was written by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson, the 
eminent Egyptologist ; and the handbook to Pal- 
estine (in two volumes) was prepared by the Rev. 
Dr. Porter, the author of "The Giant Cities of 
Bashan," and for many years a resident and trav- 
eller in Syria. The last-named work is pleasantly 



98 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

written, and is quite a creditable guide-book, con- 

* 
sidering its clerical paternity ; giving clouds of 

references to the Bible and the ancient classical 
authors, and omitting most of the ordinary guide- 
book details (which, indeed, could hardly be for- 
mulated about a country like Palestine). 

I regard it as economy to buy a Baedeker's 
guide, even if you only intend to remain for three 
or four days in the country of which it treats, be- 
cause its practical notes will enable you to save 
more than its cost within the first day or two. 
The information which you obtain from the book, 
and the fixcility with which it enables you to 
visit the cities where you stop, can thus be ob- 
tained at no expense. 

The guide-books which are published in the 
United States, and which profess to describe all 
the notable objects in Europe, will be of no ser- 
vice to you if you design to make a long tour. 
These books are, perhaps, useful to the through- 
Europe - in - three - months travellers, since they 
specify about all that such hasty gentlemen have 
time to see. I have not yet seen the new Euro- 



Europe for %1 a Day. 99 

pean guide-book published by Lippincott k Co., 
and therefore I conclude that it must be better 
than either of the others. 



19. Of carrying Weapons. 

Some travellers wish to carry arms of defence 
with them throughout their journey, but the 
wisdom of such a measure is at least question- 
able. They are dangerous to the bearer in two 
ways : firstly, in the mysterious habit which such 
things have of injuring their bearers; and, sec- 
ondly, in the suspicion which their discovery would 
arouse in the minds of frontier officers and public 
guardians. A revolver is also a heavy and incon- 
venient thing to carry about, with its proper equip- 
ment of ammunition. The roads and by-ways of 
Northern Europe are fully as safe as those of New 
England, and a good walking-stick would answer 
all purposes of defence better than more fatal 
arms. In Central and Southern Italy your appar- 
ent lack of this world's wealth would generally 
discourage the visits of brigands, but if they came 



100 Europe for %1 a Bay. 

it would be in such numbers and so quickly that 
a pair or two of revolvers could avail nothing. 
Nothing less than a section of Gatling guns 
would serve you against a band of Greek brigands, 
though a revolver, backed by a clear eye, may 
stand you in good stead against the marauders 
who prowl about the environs of Athens. I was 
once rambling about, quite alone, among some an- 
cient tombs near that city, when I w^as approached 
suddenly by a white-kilted and gilt-edged sort of 
gentleman, resembling the Fra Diavolo of our 
operas, who bore a gun and shouted vociferously 
at me. The only word which I could distinguish 
in his Homeric defiance was the Greek word for 
" money," and as I deemed the place and the situ- 
ation unfavorable for an argument on that theme, 
I drew an empty revolver from my pocket and 
showed it to him, wnth the muzzle on a level with 
his mustache. This view of the case seemed to 
surprise him, and my Fra Diavolo quickly disap- 
peared around the hill. I mentioned the incident 
on returning to my hotel, and about an hour after- 
ward a picket of cavalry was ordered out there (it 



Europe for %1 a Day. 101 

was two years after the Marathon massacre). In 
Palestine and Syria I found a revolver a valuable 
companion on several occasions, and its possession 
gave me a constant sense of security. A large 
proportion of the Western travellers carry weap- 
ons while in Syria, and they sometimes make them- 
selves highly ridiculous therewith, as illustrated 
by Mark Twain in '' The Innocents Abroad." A 
revolver is a useless burden until you get south 
of Florence, and then you can buy one for $ 6 or 
% 8. In Belgium you can get fine weapons at a 
low rate. I bought a revolver at Malta, partly as 
an appropriate souvenir of that warlike isle, and 
partly in a mingled maze of memories of crusad- 
ing knights, Indian scouts of the plains, and the 
felonious Ishmaelites of Palestine. I would n't 
have fired it at a man, to hurt him, on any consid- 
eration ; but, at different times, I persuaded several 
parties that such was my intentiom, and so com- 
passed my designs as effectually as if I had marked 
my trail with Paynim corses. 



102 Europe for |2 a Da%j. 

20. Of Diaries, Shetch-Books, etc. 

A valuable aid to memory is the preparation 
of a full and thoughtful diary, chronicling your 
voyages, the sights and impressions you meet 
with, and some of the more piquant personal in- 
cidents. In this way yoxx will crystallize your 
fluid thoughts, and make sure that you are think- 
ing, and not merely reading guide-books. It is 
easy to get an hour a day for this purpose, either 
in rainy weather, or long evenings alone, or while 
waiting for railroad trains. If the sentences are 
unpolished, or terse and epigrammatic, they will 
fix the thought or observation just as well, — nay, 
they wdll be more natural and suggestive than the 
hypothetical and oily-smooth diaries which our 
novelists write for their heroines. Addison could 
not have written " The Man without a Country." 
There is a sparkle and vigor in thoughts thus 
noted down while they are yet tingling through 
the brain. You can read them over years after, 
and recall the day and the scene in all their fresh- 
ness, and the time will come when they will be 



Europe for ^2 a Day. 103 

worth more than their weight in gold to you. It 
will take some time to get into the habit of such 
writing ; but afterwards it will be a delightful 
amusement, and will while away mauy an other- 
wise lonely or mischievous evening. I brought 
home nine volumes of journals, written in this 
manner, and they are now very precious to me. 
I wrote of those things which the travel-book 
makers do not notice, — queer little out-of-the-way 
bits, provincial mosaics, independent thoughts, 
quaint inscriptions, — in fact, a medley of sug- 
gestive notes, crudely stated and unarranged, 
which more time or a steadier hand might make 
much of (therein resembling this little book). No 
statistics, no dates, no formulated rant about ca- 
thedrals and castles. If I wish to recall the 
height of Notre Dame de Paris or the date of 
the Vandal attack on Rome, I have but to refer 
to my guide-books; if I would ascertain the 
orthodox emotions on entering Cologne Cathe- 
dral or the Coliseum, I can turn to any of the 
multitude of travel-books, some of which are good, 
some bad, many indifferent. My long journej^s in 



104 Europe for %1 a Day. 

Palestine and Syria gave me themes enough to 
make nine hundred pages of manuscript, which 
I have spiced up with Moslem legends and old 
traditions of the Crusades. This " Pilgrimage 
in the Morning Land " affords me good reading 
for Sundays, and is a monopoly, for neither pub- 
lisher nor citizen (save the author) has ever heard 
of it. Keej) a complete series of annals of your 
journey, for it will be the most precious visible 
thing you can bring back from the Old World. 
Sketch-books are another source of great and 
permanent pleasure. You can easily obtain a 
knowledge of the rudiments of perspective and 
shading sufficient to make a plain sketch that 
will afterwards be full of suggestion. The out- 
lines are enough to do on the ground, the shading 
and finer work can be finished at your leisure. 
There is an interlinking of person with scene, a 
remembrance of a past happy conjunction, which 
is attainable in this way and which no photograph 
or engraving can afford. Tn Palestine, and in the 
remoter provincial districts, there are countless 
objects of interest and beauty whose perfect mem- 



Europe for %1 a Day. 105 

ory can be preserved in no other way, for there 
the photographers do not go. The most beautiful 
memento of travel that I have ever seen was 
formed by a wealthy tourist who passed slowly 
and wisely through one of the most interesting 
districts of Europe. He had a book made of 
heavy, white, unruled paper, nearly as large as a 
counting-house ledger, and interleaved with tissue 
paper. In this he kept his journal, dotted here 
and there w^ith classic quotations or bits of poe- 
try, and illustrated by pencil-sketches tinted with 
umber. 

You will remember constantly that your foreign 
trip is not an episode of aesthetic vagabondage, 
designed solely to gratify the eye with views of 
many pretty things, but that it is for your edu- 
cation as well, and that much reading and thought 
and observation of the people should be combined 
w4th your journeys. 

On the other hand, one of the greatest mistakes 
generally connected with tours in Europe is the 
rush with which they are carried on, by which 

the traveller becomes speedily weary and remains 
5* 



106 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 



so until he reaches America again. No time is 
given for assimilation, but city after city and 
realm after realm is devoured, while a grievous 
state of mental indigestion is going on. It is 
this unappreciative haste which makes our books 
of travel and European letters such dreary plati- 
tudes. The powerful correspondents — Conway 
at London, Houssaye at Paris, Brewster at Rome 

— write richly, from familiarity with their sub- 
jects. The American lady, on her return from 
abroad, being asked her opinion of Milan Cathe- 
dral, would probably answer, " It 's perfectly splen- 
did " (being the same formula that she would 
apply to a pleasing tenor voice, a modish over- 
skirt, or a successful salad) ; and the opinion 
given by most gentlemen would be about as curt 
and indescriptive. It is more thoroughness that 
our tourists need, — to see less and to see better, 

— vide multum, non midta. If you are to spend 
a year abroad, you can devote weeks to each of 
the mother-cities and days to the provincial towns, 
and fix their memories indelibly in your mind. 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 107 

21. Of Newspaper Correspondence. ■ 

I have often been asked if a well-educated man 
can't pay his expenses while abroad by correspond- 
ing for American newspapers, and I have always 
given a negative answer. The fact is that among 
the thousands of our people who visit Europe 
every summer, many scores are afflicted by the 
cacoethes scrihendi, and our newspaper men consign 
the average proposals for a foreign correspondence 
to the limbo of spring poems. There are many 
travellers who send letters to their local papers 
without remuneration, being repaid by seeing their 
effusions in print, or by the wide notice of their 
movements which is thus given to their friends at 
home. The objects of interest beyond the sea 
have been so thoroughly written up by skilful 
pens during over a century, that you may well 
despair of telling the world anything new about 
them. It is always a subject for astonishment to 
me when I see a writer visit the lions of Europe 
and write fresh, brilliant, and yet accurate letters, 
developing new features and ideas, yet causing 



108 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 

you to feci that he is in the presence of the 
world's wonders. Among such I Avould class 
Charles Warren Stoddard in his recent Venetian 
letters, Warner in his " Saunterings," and 
Mrs. Macquoid in her lately published Norman 
sketches. Moncure D. Conway is always finding 
novelties even in the heart of travel-ridden Eng- 
land. The average letter from Europe (which 
generally goes into the editor's basket, but some- 
times strays into print) reads after this manner : — 

To THE Editor or the "Battle Cry." 

At last I am in the Eternal City ! ! ! ! 
! ! ! ! About me are the temples ! ! and 
palaces ! ! of Rome ! ! ! once the mighty 
mistress of the world !!!!!!!!!!!!! 
The presence of the Venerable Past ! ! ! 
is brooding over her ancient hills and 
ruined shrines ! ! ! ! and inspires my soul 
with a strange and reverential awe ! ! ! ! 
! ! ! ! ! Mystic and wondrous city !!!!!!! 

(Here follows a loug resume relating to ^neas, 



Europe for | 2 a Day. 109 

Ptomiilus, the legions, the '' proud and victorious 
eagles," with digressions on Lucretia, Marcus Cur- 
tins, or great Caesar, all copied, with slight and 
unimproving changes, from Murray's '' Handbook 
of Rome.") 

Yesterday I visited St. Peter's Cathe- 
dral !!!!!!!! The stupendous propor- 
tions ! ! of this greatest of earth's temples 
! ! ! ! filled me with unbounded admira- 
tion ! ! and amazement ! ! ! as I stood 
upon the square before its majestic fagade 
! ! ! But when I pushed aside the heavy 
leathern curtain at the door, and entered 
the shrine itself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

(Several paragraphs of mathematical descrip- 
tion, boiled down from Murray or Baedeker.) 

To-morrow I shall visit the Palace ! ! 
of the Quirinal ! ! ! and the Lateran Ca- 
thedral ! ! ! ! Next week I shall leave for 
Naples ! ! ! ! having remained in Rome ! ! 



110 Europe for %1 a Day. 

for five days ! ! ! and seen all its majesty 

! ! glory ! ! ! and splendor ! ! ! ! 

If this letter is acceptable to you I 

should be pleased to write again at an 

early day. 

E. M. T. 

Now these are not the kind of letters that the 
newspapers want, and the very suggestion of let- 
ters from Europe will make most of them turn 
away in impatience. It is only by hard work, 
close observation, and deep thought, that you can 
get fresh material ready, and it is useless even 
then unless you can arrange it in a pleasing man- 
ner. If you can surmount all these difficulties 
and present pen-pictures of new phases of life or 
fresh views concerning the notable things of Eu- 
rope, you may perhaps be able to have your let- 
ters published and paid for, and may thus defray 
a portion of your expenses. 

It will be impossible to make permanent and 
definite arrangements with newspapers relative to 
correspondence until they know^ your ability. If 



Europe for %'l a Day. Ill 

you apply to editors with reference to tins matter, 
and they are ftxvorably inclined, they will proba- 
bly invite you to send them one or two letters 
after your arrival in Europe. If these letters are 
satisfactory, they will be printed and paid for (pro- 
viding the journal is well-to-do) ; otherwise, you 
will not hear from them again. In journalism 
(as in patent medicines) a name goes a great ways, 
and if you are as yet unknown in the republic of 
letters, your contributions will naturally command 
but a moderate recompense. Until you become 
well known your letters would scarcely bring more 
than from $ 6 to $ 10, the amount depending on 
the wealth and standing of the newspaper. It is 
a hard task to write a sparkling, original, and ac- 
curate letter, and you will perhaps find it difficult 
to accomplish such labors systematically, in con- 
nection with 3^our busy sight-seeing. 

I desired to defray part of my expenses by cor- 
respondence, and received invitations from " The 
Christian Union," "The Hearth and Home," and 
other papers, to send specimen letters. I saw the 
necessity of finding some new line of description, 



112 Europe for %1 a Day. 

and commenced it by going to Scottish Dundee, 
and delving about among its mission-schools and 
churches after material for a letter to the " Union." 
I sent it to New York, elaborated and well ar- 
ranged, but the editor wrote back that he could 
not use communications from provincial towns, 
and I had my two daj^s and evenings of work for 
nothing. I suppose that it must have been a veiy 
poor letter, and merited prompt rejection. " The 
Hearth and Home " wanted something so unique 
and original that I never attempted to fill its 
order. There are so many skilful and well-known 
authors and thinkers who go abroad and send 
their lucubrations home, that an untried pen has 
but little chance of success. 



22. Of the Etiquette of Churches and. Palaces. 

It may seem strange that it should be thought 
necessary to caution Americans against commit- 
ting grave improprieties in the European cathe- 
drals, yet these ill-bred manifestations are so com- 
mon among our people abroad (and among the 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 113 

British still more) that a word of warning is need- 
ful. Many people seem to regard these buildings 
as intended for the use of curious travellers and 
the crude admiration of sentimental idlers, rather 
than for the most solemn rites of religion, and for 
the improvement of the local populations, " And 
is it that there is no religion in America % " said 
an Italian to me. When I asked him whence he 
got that impression, he answered, " Because your 
countrymen are so irreverent in our churches." I 
could not wonder at his conclusion. Scores of 
times have I seen English and American people 
strolling about in cathedrals, laughing, jesting, 
and talking in loud tones, while services were go- 
ing on at the altars. The gay abandon of Broad- 
w\ay or the club-room is transferred to these tran- 
quil and solemn temples of religion ; and the 
perfumed snob, who, a month before, had swung 
his dainty cane before the Fifth Avenue Hotel 
or the Tremont House, carries himself with the 
same license, and flirts as unreservedly with the 
brainless belle by his side, in the most august 
shrines of the church. For ladies oftentimes be- 



114 Europe for $2 a Bay. 

have most indecorously in the cathedrals. I re- 
member attending the Feast of St. John, at the 
Lateran Basilica, in Rome, when Pontifical high 
mass was conducted by two cardinals, aided by 
several bishops and scores of minor clergy. It 
was an occasion of the deepest solemnity, when 
even a Hottentot should have known enough to 
keep silence ; but a party of Americans, gayly 
dressed women and apparently jocose men, occu- 
pied a position in the chancel and kept up an 
incessant laughing and whispering, varied by 
lounging about the church. The Romans, who 
crowded the nave and transepts, looked at them, 
some with pity, others with contempt, and still oth- 
ers with undisguised resentment; and one of the 
city newspapers alluded to the incident, the next 
day, in most angry terms. The Catholic churches 
are open every day, and you are at liberty to go 
about their interiors and inspect their treasures 
of art, but common courtesy should forbid your 
interrupting divine services by unseemly intru- 
sions or loud conversation. AVhat should we do 
if a party of Italians entered Park-Street Church 



Europe for %2 a Day. 115 

or Trinity during service-time and rambled about 
for half an hour, talking, laughing, and jesting^ 
It may be the case of many, as it was of my 
comrade, that they entertain such a hatred and 
contempt for " Popery " that they cannot simu- 
late even an outward respect for its ceremonials. 
Then let them keep away from its shrines. 

There is, also, an etiquette of palaces and 
courts, to which you should be prepared to con- 
form, or else avoid the places where it is en- 
forced. Half-educated Protestantism and Repub- 
licanism are apt to cry out against these forms, 
and to disregard them with boorish self-assump- 
tion. When we are in Caesar's empire we have 
the highest authority for rendering unto Caesar 
the things that are his. While in the Vatican 
Palace I met the Pope by accident, and, in ac- 
cordance with custom, I dropped upon one knee 
as he passed, and received his benediction. I 
did not stop to go into the questions of the anti- 
popes, or w^hether Peter was ever in Rome, or 
whether the Decretals of Isidore were authentic ; 
but offered the proper and customary homage to 



116 Eur 02^6 for $2 a Day. 

a temporal prince and a bishop of Rome. A fel- 
low-American reproached me strongly with having 
"bowed the knee to the ni^'stery of iniquit}-, the 
abomination of desolation," and various other un- 
pleasant attributes. While I was in Rome one 
of these blatant Protestants (an Englishman) was 
admitted by courtesy to the inner rooms of the 
Vatican, where he met the Pope, by chance. 
Pius was about to bestow a benediction upon 
the visitor to his palace, when the fellow blurted 
out, "Sir, I do not wish your blessing; I do not 
accept your pretensions, and wish to have noth- 
ing to do with you." Instead of ordering his 
guards to eject him from the palace, the amia- 
ble old man answered, "My son, an old man's 
blessing won't hurt you." 

The Turks will not allow any trifling in their 
mosques, but keep a close watch on their West- 
ern visitors. You will not be inclined to linger 
in the temples of Islam, for the worsliippers seem 
to follow you wuth angry eyes, and make your 
sojourn uncomfortable. In some cities you must 
be attended by a military guard, in order to 



Europe for %1 a Day. 117 

protect you from the devout Moslems, who seem 
to think that your simple presence is a desecra- 
tion. Your shoes must be left at the door, and 
the circuit of the mosque is made in slippers. 

23. Of English Churches on the Continent, etc. 

Nearly all the chief cities of Europe have 
churches for English and American tourists, con- 
trolled usually by British clergymen. They are 
mostly of the Episcopal sect, and are maintained 
by an English society, though the Scottish Pres- 
byterians have also several churches. It is pleas- 
ant to attend -services at these places on Sunday 
morning, and to see several scores of fellow-coun- 
trymen together. The churches sometimes have 
buildings of their own, but more usually meet at 
the embassies or in halls of old palaces. At the 
present rate of division in Rome, it seems as if 
within five years there would be in that city in- 
finitesimal churches of every hair-splitting sect 
in Christendom. No wonder that the depapal- 
ized Italians despair of finding the true Protes- 



118 Europe for $2 a Day. 

tantism in this chaos of hostile churchHngs, and 
relapse into the calm quietude of secularism ! 

It is well to be thoroughly grounded in your 
religious belief, whatever it may be, before mak- 
ing a long tour in Europe. Not to know the 
creed onl}^ but its reasons and proof, that you 
may remain firm in it until something which is 
beyond doubt better shall come before you. I 
knew of several cases of singular changes of sect 
through which travelling friends passed. A for- 
mer officer of a Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion, after a long sojourn at a rationalistic German 
University, became an infidel of the most aggres- 
sive kind ; two young New-Englanders, of the 
Orthodox persuasion, were so dazzled by the splen- 
dor of the Roman Catholic Church, that they 
studied its doctrines from the lips of its priests, 
and soon w^ent over to that sect ; several Episco- 
palians were made within my knowledge out of 
American dissenters ; and I heard of three Eng- 
lishmen who, at Aden, were received into the 
communion of INIohannned. If these various con- 
verts found better creeds than their own, their 



Europe for |2 a Day. 119 

changes were wisely ordered ; but there is recason 
to doubt whether they had taken time enough to 
investigate either the systems they were leaving 
or those to which they were going. After thor- 
oughly learning the why and wherefore of your 
own belief, it is of great importance to study the 
history and position of the Church of Rome. In 
America we see the Catholics in their worst 
phases, socially at least, but over there they in- 
clude the wisest and noblest men of several king- 
doms and scores of millions of people. American 
youth are generally educated to the deepest preju- 
dices against Catholics, and read only the books 
which take strong ground in condemnation of 
them. Most of your time will be spent in Cath- 
olic countries, in and about their cathedrals and 
monasteries, and even in Germany and England 
you are brought constantly in contact with their 
ruined abbeys and confiscated churches. You 
will see the workings of society, literature, and 
art, which have grown up in and have been 
moulded by the Roman Church, and it is there- 
fore of prime importance that you should under- 



120 Europe for %1 a Bay. 

stand the Church itself, considered ns an ethical 
factor, in its history, its influence for good and 
evil, and its power for the future. You should, 
therefore, study books on both sides. Manning as 
well as Gladstone, learning thus that Catholicism 
has filled the world with blessings sprinkled with 
errors, and that the cathedral-builders were also 
indulgence-venders. If you have such a knowl- 
edge of both parties, your one-sided and unin- 
formed Protestantism will not be put to shame 
by the first cultured Catholic you may meet; 
and you can perhaps learn to enter the prayer- 
laden air of a cathedral without thinking of " the 
scarlet woman " and the Abbot of Misrule. The 
venerable prior of the Franciscan convent at Je- 
rusalem, just ere I left the city, gave me a con- 
troversial work by the Abb6 Segur (Causeries sur 
le Frotestantisme), entreating me to read it, and 
saying that he would pray for my conversion. I 
read it carefully, but my only conclusion was that 
it was a skilfully written work, although the gen- 
tleman did n't seem to understand le Protestant- 
isme very well. 



Europe for $ 2 a Day. 121 

^4-' Of forming Proper Anticipations. 

Lower your expectations concerning the gran- 
deur or beauty of things beyond the sea. I do 
not know a more valuable hint than this for 
changing what would otherwise be disappoint- 
ments into pleasant surprises. The great lions 
of Europe — Mont Blanc, the chief cathedrals, 
the river Rhine, etc. — will inevitably disappoint 
you, unless you can lower the ideals which most 
travellers form in their minds. You will often 
meet people who say that their emotions on first 
seeing these world's wonders were of the inade- 
quacy of the scenes to the accounts they had 
heard of them, and your own impressions may be 
of the same character unless you lower your 
anticipations. I remember having read George 
Alfred Townsend's glorious description of Milan 
Cathedral (in " Lost Abroad " ), and a few days 
later I saw the temple itself To my first view it 
was only a large marble church, fronting on an 
unpleasant square, and adorned with indistinct 
spires. I was shocked with disappointment. But 
6 



122 Europe for $2 a Day, 

when I had spent a fortnight in Milan, and studied 
the cathedral in every light and through every 
part, I then saw that the description was far inad- 
quate to the actuality, and if I should now write 
an account of it, it would be more brilliant and 
enthusiastic (if possible) than Mr. Townsend's. 
Warned by the earlier stages of this experience, I 
prepared myself for St. Peter's, at Kome, in a 
different way. I had read Hawthorne's superb 
description of that building, and was forced to be 
even more carefully on my guard against too lofty 
an ideal. So I bade myself consider that it was 
only a church, built by Italian men, now very old 
and perhaps time-worn, with a much-criticised 
architecture, and probably very much overrated 
in other ways. I reminded myself that it was not 
an Olymi^ian temple, founded by demi-gods, but a 
large stone building of the genus chiu'ch, whereof 
are also the Hollis Street Church and the grim 
little Advent, in Boston. By zealously cultivating 
these feelings of disparagement, I was fitted to 
enjoy the marvellous surprise with which St. Pe- 
ter's came to me, and did not bring away a mem- 



Europe for %1 a Day. 123 

ory as of an idol shattered. The men who have 
written well of these mighty shrines and natural 
beauties have been prepared by reverent and 
thorough study of their actual entire effect and 
the fitness and unity of their parts ; the super- 
ficial travel-mongers of less experience have natu- 
rally echoed the pseans of the masters. 

The Kliine, the Danube, and Switzerland are 
more apt to leave an impression of unsatisfaction, 
because people generally have not time to study 
their harmony of beauty. The impression made 
by the Siebcngebirge on a passing traveller on the 
deck of the Rhine steamer is far inferior to that 
produced by days of study devoted to their ro- 
mantic peaks ; and the Rheinstein, pretty enough 
(and only enough) from the river, becomes grand 
when you can stand upon its ancient battlements. 
In descending the Danube from Passau to Vienna 
my companion steadfastly maintained that the 
scenery was inferior to that of the Lower Con- 
necticut River. If I now thought that I could 
enter at Hartford upon more beautiful scenery 
than that of the Upper Danube, I should be very 



124 Europe for %1 a Day. 

glad to make the journey thither. It is said that 
New-Yorkers frequently prefer the Hudson to the 
Rhine, and if their taste is correct the Hudson 
must be a very lovely stream. But doubtless if 
we studied the Rhine or Danube as closely as the 
more familiar rivers nearer home, we should find 
that each has a rich beauty of its own, not depend- 
ent on the praises of Byron or Victor Hugo. It is 
the express-train, through-Europe-in-three-months 
tourists who usually return with blighted hopes. 
Many of the chief European sights are like certain 
books whose first chapters appear dull and tame, 
but which, being thoroughly read, leave in your 
mind a permanent and brilliant impression. Or 
like some young ladies, on whom, at first acquamt- 
ance, you do not care to cast a second glance, but 
who in time display such fine and beautiful traits 
as to tempt you towards the limbo of Benedicks. 

25. Of Pemdiar Tourists. 

You will meet with a class of Americans, in 
Europe, who merit the title of "spread-eagle," 



Europe for | 2 a Day. 125 

and who will remind you of the Fourth-of-July 
orators at Jaalam Centre. Their observations 
lead but to comparisons with things in the United 
States, in which Europe is thrown into ignoble 
inferiority, and the auditor is left with the im- 
pression that Athens, Rome, and Arcadia have 
been blended in the transatlantic Republic. The 
castles and palaces of the nobles excite their 
wrath and pity ; but it is not until they reach 
Italy and see the everywhere-present priests and 
monks, cathedrals and convents, that their ire 
becomes volcanic. There is nothing that the 
p]nglish traveller so dreads as to meet one of 
these bird-of-freedom men. The courtesy of ap- 
parent conformity with the opinions and customs 
of the countries which they visit is an inconceiv- 
able treason in their eyes ; and they are never 
changed by the influences about them, though 
starting so far wrongly. Yet they are amusing- 
companions, sometimes, and afford a strong (though 
narrow) national type. One is often at a loss 
to know what they travel for. We once had a 
New England militia-colonel on our steamer, a 



120 Europe for %1 a Da\j. 

man of this type. The vessel had crossed from 
Egypt during the night, and was lying to oft' 
Jaffa, the port of Jerusalem, rolling heavily, and 
waiting for a lull in order to land passengers. 
The man of musters came on deck, pallid and 
sea-sick, and looked off' on the sand-dunes about 
the white city, then remarked to me : " That 's 
the Holy Land, is if? H — 1 of a looking coun- 
try ! " I met him long afterwards, when he had 
finished the tour of Palestine: "Not that I care 
a d — n about the country, but so I can tell the 
folks at home about it." There is a vast amount 
of travelling done, both in Europe and America, 
for precisely that reason. 

More disagreeable than the spread-eagle people 
are those unfortunate denationalized men who 
were born and brought up in the United States, 
but have, after a few months in Europe, become 
what they call "cosmopolitan." These are gen- 
erally young men of good families and of some 
culture, and stand in strongest contrast to their 
extra-patriotic brethren. They fraternize with 
tiie English, and expose the vices of America 



Europe for %1 a Day. 127 

with facile lips to willing ears, concealing her 
glories even if believing that they exist. A true 
x\merican, propei'ly impressed by and fitly esti- 
mating the splendors of other lands, is a valua- 
ble citizen and a good companion ; but snobbery 
reaches its climax in the Anglicized Boston ian, 
the epicene of nations. Howells describes him 
well : "He has been a good deal abroad, and he 
is Europeanized enough not to think much of 
America, though I can't find that he quite ap- 
proves of Europe, and his experience seems not 
to have left him any particular country in either 
hemisphere." 

26. Of Passports. 

Credentials of this kind are easily obtained be 
fore leaving the United States, through the De- 
partment of State. Every traveller should be 
thus provided, in view of contingencies that may 
arise. In case of war, the frontiers of the bel- 
ligerent states are usually closed to travellers who 
are not thus identified, and the possession of a 
passport will often deliver one from the unpleasant 



128 Europe for $2 a Bay. 

results of the suspicions aroused by the prying 
habits of tourists. I was once passing time away 
by sketching a picturesque tower on one of the 
German frontier fortresses (during the Franco- 
German war), when I was suddenly surrounded by 
a party of Prussian soldiers, who haled me away 
to the guard-house. I was not released until the 
officers had carefully compared me with the de- 
scription on my passport, and had convinced them- 
selves that I was not a French spy. In time of 
peace, a passport is often useful in identifying the 
traveller at his banker's, or in helping hira out 
of temporary pecuniary difficulties, by stating (in 
some degree) his standing as an American. 



THE END. 



Cambridge : Electrotyped and Printed by Welch, Bigelow, & Co. 



Baedeker's European Guide-Boohs. i 



OSGOOD'S EDITIONS 



Baedeker s European Guide-Books. 



By special arrangement with Mr. Baedeker, we now have American 
editions of these celebrated GuiJe-Books, which are unequalled in the 
fulness and accuracy of their information, and are famous for the 
excellence and beauty of their maps. Persons intending to visit Europe 
will see the groat advantage of procuring Baedeker's Guides to aid in 
forming their programmes more intelligently, and to help them in 
counting the cost of various tours. 



*^* For sa^e hy Booksellers. Sent, post-paid., on receipt of price, by 
the Publishers, 



JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



ii Baedeker's European Guide-Books. 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

" Baedeker is, as is well known, a singularly' accurate and useful guide, 
.... his infonnation is compreliensivc, minute, and carefully com- 
piled."— PaZZ Mall Gazette. 

" Baedeker's Handbooks have a great reputation all over the Continent 
of Europe, and for years have been distributed in numerous editions." — 
London Header. 

" We should be inclined to prefer Baedeker, who notes briefly the more 
essential points, but has not room to distract you with too many particu- 
lars The numerous maps and plans of cities with which the works 

arc furnished are the best and most conveniently arranged we have ever 
seen in a guide-book." — y/ie Scotsman (Edinburgh). 

" For all who do not care for elaborate description, doubtful criticism, 
and a profusion of historical reminiscences .... there are no guide- 
books like Baedeker's. They are of convenient size, contain everything 
that the ordinaiy traveller wants to know, told accurately, sensibh', and 
SHCcinctlj\ Their list of hotels and restaurants is generally trustworthy, 
and may be consulted with confidence by persons to whom expense is of 
some consequence."— The Nation {New York). 

" Baedeker's Guide-Books are the best possible help to the traveller in 
Europe. Their information is always full and correct. They arc superior 
to most works of their class in not taking for granted that every tourist is 
indifferent to questions of econoni}'."— Cincinnati Gazette. 

" No American who knows what is best for his convenience and com- 
fort abroad will foil to possess himself of this invaluable series of guide- 
books. Better buy them here in America. They will fiiniish just the 
needed reading during the long hours of the sea-voyage."— Watchman 
and Reflector (Boston). 



Baedeker's European Guide-Bo oks. iii 



PARIS 



AND ITS ENVIRONS, 



With, the Routes from London to Paris, and from Paris to the 
Rhine and Switzerland. 



WITH MATS AND DESCEIPTIONS OF 

Paris, the Environs of Paris, and Northern France ; and Plans and 
Descriptions of Havre, Boulogne, Dieppe, Versailles, St. Germain-en- 
Laye, the Bois de Boulogne, the Cemetery of Pere La Chaise, the Jardin 
des Plaates, and a key-plan of Paris. 



" Baedeker's European Guide-Books are of world-wide celebrity, and 
people who are intending to travel will find it to their advantage to buy 
them, now and here ; so as to familiarize themselves in advance with 
routes of travel and the objects of interest to be seen at different places. 
The maps are admirable, and the fulness and accuracy of the informa- 
tion contained in these volumes is worthy of all praise. So much time 
is lost, by most travellers, through not knowing beforehand precisely 
■what they want to see and where they want to find it, that these Guide- 
Books are likely to be in great demand for purposes of preparatory 
study, as well as for use when fairly en voyage,'''' — New York Tribune. 



The Handbook to Paris and Northern France contains 340 pages, with 
3 maps and 9 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of $ 2.00. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Bosto.\. 



iv Jjaedeker'' s European Gaide-Jjooks. 



BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 



WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 

Belgium aud IluUand, the Environs of Ostend and Bruges, the Battlc- 
Field of Waterloo, the Estuary of the Schclde and Maas, the Ilivir 
Meuse from Dinant to Liege, and the Environs of Amsterdam. 

Also Plans and Desci-iptions of the Cities of Amsterdam, the Tuner 
Town of Amsterdam, Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ghent, the Hague and 
Scheveniugen, Haarlem, Leyden, Liege, Louvain, Ostcud, Rotterdam, 
aud Utrecht. 

"Baedeker's European Guides are the best special guides ever pub- 
lished in English, more compact than Murray's and not less trust- 
worthy. The maps are specially admirable, and worth to the tourist 
the whole cost of the books. One should, by all means, use tlies^e 
guides in laying out his tour, which cannot be done too carefully or too 
minutely as a preparation for travel. They will be an economical 
investment for this purpose, even if he goes abroad as a ' carpet-bag- 
ger,' and cannot take half a dozen books with him." — Journal of 
Chemistry. 

The Handbook to Belgium and Holland contains 2G7 pages, with 6 
maps and 14 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of $ 1.75. 

JAMES W. OSGOOD k CO., Boston. 



Maedeker''s European Guide-Books. v 

THE RHINE, 

FROM ROTTERDAM TO CONSTANCE. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCTJPTIOXS OF 

The Lower Rhine, the Seven Mountains, the Rhine from Bonn to 
Coblcnz, and from Coblenz to Bingen ; the Niederwald, the Rheingau, 
the EnTirons of Metz, the Moselle Valley, the Volcanic Eifel, the 
Taunus, the Odenwald, the Black Forest (Northern Part and Southern 
Part), the Vosges, and a Railwaj' Map of the Rhineland. 

Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Aix-la-Chapelle, Bale, 
Bonn, Carlsruhe, Coblenz, Cologne, Constance, Darmstadt, DUsseldorf, 
Frankfort, Freiburg, Heidelberg, Maycnce, Strasburg, Treves, and 
Wiesbaden. 

" We decide this handsome cherry-colored volume to be a first-class 

handbook for travellers It will be of great service to Americans 

going abroad Persons of inexperience will find it of immense 

value. The best hotels, restaurants, — in fact, every place of interest, — 
recommended by Mr. Baedeker, can be relied upon , and the tourist is 
saved a world of trouble. The book explains everything you ought to 
know. Buy it, by all means, and carry it along with you in your 
satchel." — Phila. City Item. 



The Handbook to the Rhine contains 290 pages, with 15 maps and 16 
plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on receipt of % 2.00. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



vi Baedeker's Europecm. Guide-Books. 



NORTHERN GERMANY. 



WITH MAPS AND DESCllIPTIONS OF 



Northwestern Germany, the Frisian Islands, the Sound and Eastern 
Zealand, the Island of Rugen, the Giant Mountains, the Glatz Moun- 
tains, the Saxon Switzerland, the Thuringian Forest (Eastern Portion 
and Western Portion), the Harz Mountains, and Northeastern Ger- 
many. 

Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Berlin, the Environs of 
Berlin, Bremen, Breslau, Brunswick, Cassel, Copenhagen, Dantzic, 
Dresden, Erfurt, Gotha, Hamburg, the Environs of Hamburg, Hano- 
ver, Ilildcshcim, Kiel, Konigsberg, Leipsic, Liibec, Magdeburg, Munster, 
Potsdam, the Royal Gardens of Potsdam, Schwerin, Stettin, Weimar, 
Wilhelmshbhe. 



"Baedeker's Gnide-Book has long had an enviable reputation, and it 
was fairly earned. This translation and rc])ublicatiou of it in this 
country is the result of a happy and practical thought It is wonder- 
ful for the lai'ge amount of information it condenses, and it is of just 
such a sort as the average tourist needs. Generally, it will fairly well 
suffice for him. Nothing of special interest is ovei-looked ; nothing of 
slight importance is needlessly dwelt on. The compilation has been 
made witli the greatest care, and in the translation special regard has 
been paid to the wants of American travellers. The maps and plans 
are admirable in design, and are most superbly executed. Those in- 
tending to go abroad and visit this interesting portion of Europe can 
hardly afford to overlook this timely little volume." — Morning, Utar. 



The Handbook to Northern Germany contains 294 pages, with 11 
maps and 27 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on receipt of $2.00. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



Baedeker's European Guide-Boohs, vii 

SOUTHERN GERMANY 

AND 

THE AUSTRIAN EMPIRE. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 

The Eastern Alp«, the Suabian Alb, Franconian Switzerland, the Wet- 
terstcin Mountains and Walchensee, the Environs of Munich, the 
Fiehtelgebirge, the Bavarian Forest, the Environs of Vienna, the 
Danube (2 maps, — Passau to A^ieuna), the Salzkammergut, the Envi- 
rons of Salzburg, the Pinzgau and Hohe Tauern, the Zillerthal, the 
Vorarlberg and AlgJu Alps, the Upper Innthal, Oetzthal, Stubay-Thal 
and Vintschgau, the Ortler District, the Inner Oetzthal Mountains, the 
Lake of Garda, the Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Alps, the Dolomite 
Mountains, the Gross Tenediger District, the Grossglockner District, 
the Danube from Vienna to Pestli, the Tatra Mountains, and Railway 
Maps of Eastern Austria, Western Austria, and Southwestern Germany. 

Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Augsburg, Bamberg, 
Carlsbad, Constance, Cracow, Gastein, Gmunden, Gratz, Innspruck, 
Isehl, Kissingen, Saxenburg, Meran, Munich, Nuremburg, Pesth and 
Ofen, Prague, Pressburg, Ratisbon, Reichenhall, Salzburg, Stuttgart, 
Trieste, Ulm, Vienna, the Inner Town of Vienna, and Wurzburg. 

The Handbook to Southern Germany and the Austrian Empire con- 
tains 516 pages, with 28 maps and 27 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, 
on receipt of % 3.50. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



viii Baedeker'' s European Guide-Dool's. 



SWITZERLAND 



AND THE ADJACENT PORTIONS OF 

ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCRimONS OF 

Switzerland, the Schaffhausen-Constance District, the Lake of Con- 
stance, the Lake of Zurich, the Lake of Lucerne, the Environs of the 
St. Gotthard Pass, the Bex-nese Obcrland, the Upper Valais, the Valley 
of the Rhone, the Lalce of Geneva, the Valley of Chamouny, the Envi- 
rons of the Great St. Bernard Pass, the Environs of Monte Rosa, the 
Canton of Appenzell, Glarus, the Vorder Rheinthal, the Upper Enga- 
dine and Bernina, the Lower Engadine, the Lukmanier-Maloja Mountain 
District, Lake Maggiore, Lakes Como and Lugano, Key Map of Switzer- 
land. 

Also Panoramas of the views from the Rigi Kulm, the Faulhorn, the 
Alps from Berne, the Eggischhorn, the Flcgere, the Gorncr Grat and 
the Piz Languard. 

Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Bale, Berne, Coi^tancc, 
Geneva, Interlachen, Lausanne, Lucerae, Milan, Ragatz, and Zurich. 

The Handbook to Switzerland contains 427 pages, with 29 maps and 
panoramas and 10 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of 
$ 2.50. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



Baedeker's European Guide-Boolvs. ix 



NORTHERN ITALY, 



LEGHORN, FLORENOE, AND ANCONA, 

AND THE 

ISLAND OF CORSICA. 

AVITII MArS AND DESCllIPTIOXS OF 

Northern Italy, the Environs of Nice, the Italian Lakes, Lago di Garda, 
the Environs of Florence, and the Island of Corsica. 

Also Plans and Descriptions of tlie Cities of Ancona, Avignon, Ler- 
gamo, Bologna, Brescia, Cremona, Ferrara, Florence, Genoa, Lucca, 
Lyons, Mantua, Marseilles, Milan, Modena, Nimes, Padua, Parma, 
Pavia, Pisa, Ravenna, Trieste, Turin, Venice, Verona, and Vicenza. 



" This is one of the best works of the kind that we ever have seen , 
being at once full and concise, and abounding with facts that it is 
useful for every one to know, and without knowledge of which travel- 
lers iu Northern Italy would find themselves very awkwardly placed. 
.... Mr. Baedeker has done his work with German thoroughness and 
conscientiousness, and without tediousness. It would be difficult even 
to imagine anything that has escaped his attention and diligence, so 
exhaustively has he wrought at his undertaking. The Maps are very 
beautiful, and they are not less accurate than beautiful; and the 
Plans are such as would enable a stranger to walk about the old his- 
torical Itahan cities with entire ease It can be advantageously 

studied by the myriads who cannot travel, but who, all the same, love 
to think of and to brood over ' the pleasant garden of great Italy.' " — 
Boston Traveler. 



The Handbook for Northern Italy (and Southern France) contains 
397 pages, with 7 maps and '28 plans, and will bo sent, post-paid, on the 
receipt of ^2.50. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Bostox. 



X Baedeker's European Gicide-JBooks. 

CENTRAL ITALY 

AND 

ROME. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 

Italy, the Environs of Rome, the Roman Campagna, the Alban Moun- 
tains, the Sabine Mountains (I. Tivoli and the Teverino Valley), the 
Sabine Mountains (II. Roviauo, Subiaco, and Caprauica), the Sabine 
Mountains (III. Tivoli, ralestriua, and Olevano). 

Also Plans and Descriptions of Siena^ Perugia, Ancona, large triple- 
plan and clew-plan of Rome, the Vatican Palace, the Roman Forum, the 
Capitoline Museum, Ancient Rome, St. Peter's Church, the Imperial 
Palaces on the Palatine, the iK'iteran Church and Museum, and a Pano- 
rama of Rome. 

" There are nine of these volumes, devoted to those portions of Con- 
tinental Europe most fre(iuented by travellers, giving minute descrip- 
tions and historical memoranda of all places and objects worth visiting, 
and made as practically valuable as possible by numerous maps and 
plans The excellence of these guide-books is so generally recog- 
nized that it is matter (or congratulation that we are to have an Amer- 
ican edition, by which persons intending to visit Europe will be enabled 
to mature their plans before leaving home, or while crossing the 
Atlantic."— .Boston Globe. 

Mr. Augustus J. C. Hare, in his superb book entitled "Days near 
Rome" (published in 1875), gives unqualified praise to Baedeker's 
Central lialy. 



The Handbook to Central Italy and Rome contains 3G2 pages, with 8 
maps and 12 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on receipt of $2.50. 

JAMES 11. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



Baedelcer''s European Guide -Hoolcs. xi 

SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, 

AND 

MALTA 

(INCLUDING CARTHAGE AND ATHENS). 

WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 

Southern Italy, Sicily, Malta, the Environs of Naples, the Environs of 
Carthage, Southern Greece, etc. ; and Plans and Descriptions of Naples, 
Messina, Palermo, Syracuse, Athens, and other Cities. 



" Like all the works of this series, it is very minute and reliable in the 
information given, and is fully equipped with maps and plans of cities. 
In addition to a full description of all that is worth seeing, and much 
historical information, it gives lists of hotels, with their prices ; routes 
of travel, with the time occupied in going from place to place, by rail or 
diligence, and many hints useful to the traveller. There is an advan- 
tage to those going abroad in obtaining these books in this country, as 
it enables them to study up their routes beforehand, and thus save 
nmch valuable time." — Portland Transcript. 



The Handbook to Southern Italy contains about 400 pages, with 7 
maps and 8 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of !f? 2.50. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



xii J)aedel-er\<i Enropean Guide-Bool\ 



THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL 

OP 

CONVERSATION 

IN FOim LANGUAGES, 

ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 

WITH EXTENSIVE VOCACULAIIIES 

and many short practical dialogues, showing the actual workings 
of the languages among the people, and applicable in conversations 
v.ith railway and steamboat officials, guides, hotel-keepers, and citi- 
zens. This valuable book is indispensable to the European tourist, 
and its popularity is evident from the fact that it has already passed 
into its twenty-first edition. 



" The ' Manual of Conversation ' cannot be too strongly recom- 
mended to travellers ignorant of either French, German, or Italian. 
In fact, there is not a better text-book extant for one desirous of ac- 
quiring those languages to study at home or aliroad. The words and 
sentences in the four languages — English being added — are ranged in 
parallel columns, giving at a glance the different versions of the same 
expression. It is the best method ever yet devised for learning an 
alien tongue, and is the one used by some of the most distinguished 
and successful teachers of the languages." — Chicago Tribune. 



The Traveller's Manual contains 332 pages, and will be sent, post- 
paid, on the receipt of S^l 25 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



OsgooiVs Americcm Guide-Bool's. xiii 
OSCOOD'S 

American Guide- Books. 



In the year 1872 Messrs James R. Osgood & Co. commenced the 
preparation of a series of American Guide-Books, modelled after the 
world-renowned Baedeker Guides, and emulating their simplicity, com 
pactness, and practical character. Two volumes have already appeared, 
a third is on the eve of publication, and others are in process of prep- 
aration. They have received the highest commendations from news- 
papers and travellers throughout the United States, and have been 
republished in Germany by Mr. Baedeker, in connection with his 
European series. 

Osgood's American Guide-Books state the distances, times, and fares 
on the railroad, steamboat, and stage line?, and give Usts of the hotels 
and their prices. They include complete epitomes of the historical 
events, statements of the scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and 
architecture of the cities, biographical sketches, and statistics of the 
chief industries of the sections of which they treat. They also give 
careful statements of the attractions of the mountain and seaside 
resorts, so that the tourist can readily estimate the cost of any desired 
tour, and can pass an enjoyable season of travel with the greatest 
economy of money, time, and temper. 

They are for sale at mo.-t of the bookstores, and will be forwarded, 
post-paid, to any address, on receipt of the price. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



XIV 



OsgooiVs American Guide-Book. 



NEW ENGLAND, 



WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, FROM 
NEW YORK TO QUEBEO. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCTJl'TIONS OF 



New England, the White Mountains, the Hudson River, the Environs 
of Boston, Lake Wiunepesaukce, and Nahant; and Plans of Bof^ton, 
Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland, Provi- 
dence, Quebec, the Central Park, and the Mount Auburn Cemetery. 

The Handbook for New England (revised in 1875) contains 430 pages, 
with 6 maps and 11 plans, and will be forwarded, post-paid, on receipt 

of §2.00. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



"It is about as nearly faultless as such a book can be, — carefully 
edited, beautifully jjiinti'd, and neatly Inmnd. 'Ibere is not a page (do 
much or too little about it; and its red cover, clean typography, and con- 
venient size recall the masterpieces of Baedeker." — iV'«c York Tribune. 

" Osgood's ' Handbook to New England ' bids fair in New England to 
rival the lame of Murray and Bncdckcr abroad. It merits the good 
words as well as the liberal palmnage it receives; for it is a faithful, 
painstaking piece of work, and condenses into brief compass a vast 
amount of jnt'onuation, wliicb all tourists to the .seaside, mount-iin, and 
country summer-resorts of New England will gladly possess." —.AVw lurk 
Ereni7ig Post. 

" It is so complete and satisfactory that it is not likely soon to have a 
rival in the llrld. It is as com)>rehensive, minute, and accurate as 
Baedeker's excellent European guides, after which it is modelled." — 
Journal of Chemist ri/. 

"It is superior to any guide-book ever before issued in this coimtry, 
and shows an accuracy, industry, and amplitude of material really sur- 
prising." — Cumniontcealt/i. 

" The Ijook is compact and crowded The information in regard 

to the dill'erent localities is full, minute?, and exact." — Jboston Transcript. 



Osgood^s American Guide-liooks. xv 



THE MIDDLE STATES, 



NORTHERN FRONTIER FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO 
MONTREAL. 

ALSO 

BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, AND NORTHERN VIRGINIA. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCrjPTIONS OF 

The Middle States, the Adirondack Mountains, the Catskill Mountains, 
the Hudson River, Long Island, and the Environs of New York and of 
Philadelphia ; and Plans of Baltimore, Brooklyn, Buffalo, Montreal, 
New York, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Rochester, 
Saratoga, Toronto, Washington, Greenwood Cemetery, and the Central 
Park. 

The Handbook for the Middle States contains 469 pages, with 7 maps 
and 15 plans, and will be forwarded, post-paid, on receipt of S?2 00. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



" Osgood's Handbooks deservedly enjoy a very large share of public 
favor. The comjiletenviss and reliability of thoir information, and the 
excellent maps accompanying, render them unequalled." — The Arca- 
dian (New York). 

" No previous manual is so copious or so exact in its treatment, or can 
be con.^ultod to so great advantage by the tourist in the Middle States as 
a trustworthy guide." — A'e/c Vork Tribune. 

" The Handbook for the New England States, published last summer, 
was by tar the bi'st American uuide-book ever pi'inted; and this volume 
is fully equal to it in all respects." — 5o.s-^ore Transcript. 

" The entire arrangement of the book is admirable, while the amount 
of matter contained in its 450 closely printed but clear pages is simply 
astonishing." — Congregationalist. 

" Foreign visitors to this country will tind pretty much all that is worth 
seeing set down in this Handbook, with clearness and sufficient detail." 
— The Nation. 

" The work is very faithfullv done, and the 500 pages v^f the red-covered 
volume are crammed with facts useful to the tourist." — Springfield 
Republican. 



xvi OsgoocVs American Guide-Books, 



THE MARITIME PROVINCES, 

vrni 

THE GULF AND RiVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO 
QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. 

ALSO 

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR. 

WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 

The iSIaritimc Provincps and Eastern Maine and Canada, Newfoundland 
and Labrador, the Basin of Minas and tlic Land of Evangeline, tlie 
Lower St. Lawrence and the Saguenay lliver ; also Plans of St. Jolin, 
Halifax, Quebec, and Montreal. 

The Handbook for the Maritime Provinces (published in Maj-, 1875) 
contains about 340 pages, with 4 maps and 4 plans, and will be sent, 
post-paid, on the receipt of $2.00. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Bostox. 



This Handbook contains full descriptions of the natural and arti- 
ficial attractions of the Eastern British Provinces, their cities and rural 
districts, the tranquil beauty of the St. John River and the Annapolis 
Valley, the noble scenery of the Basin of Minas and the Bras d"Or, the 
majesty of the sea-repelling mountains of Newfoundland and Labrador, 
the grandeur of the Lower St. Lawrence, and the gloomy wcirdness 
of the Saguenay. It also describes St. John, " the Liverpool of 
America"; Halifax, "the Gateway of the Sea"; St. John's, "the 
Capital of Fish-and-Fog Land " ; Quebec, " the Walled City of the 
North"; Montreal, "the Queen of the St. Lawrence," and all the 
other cities and villages of these Provinces ; and devotes consider- 
able space to the fishing and hunting grounds among the Nova Scotia 
lakes, the New Brunswick and Quebec rivers, and in the interior of 
Newfoundland 



falTTLE fLA^^IC^ 



"A MrtM of •sqnlittely printed little Tolames in flexible binding and red 
•dgei, which gather np the very choicest tbingi in our literature in tho waf 
of ihort talei and iketchea. " — Buffalo Courier. 



THE PROSE SERIES 

INCLUDES TWELVE VOLUMES, AS FOLLOWS 



I. 


EXILE, 


VII. 


ROMANCE. 


II. 


INTELLECT. 


VIII. 


MYSTERY. 


III. 


TRAGEDY. 


IX. 


COMEDY. 


IV. 


LIFE. 


X. 


CHILDHOOD. 


V. 


LAUGHTER. 


XI. 


HEROISM. 


VI. 


LOVE. 


XII. 


FORTUNE. 




tartefully bound. 


Price. $1.00 each. 



Too much praise cannot be accorded the projectors of this work. It lays, 
for a very small sum, the cream of the best writers before the reader of average 
means It usually happens that very few, except professional people and scholars, 
care to read all that even the most famous men have written. They want his 
best work, — the one people talk most about, — and when they have read that 
- i."-Ne -- - - 



they are satisfied. 



/<ra/ York Commercial Advertiser. 



" Confessedly the best miscellaneous collection of short stories anywhere xt' 
taia&bXn." — Hartford Courant. 

" There is no other collection of short stories equal in value and variety." — 
Boston Advertiser. 



" Every one of these books is worth reading and buying." 
^iliran. 



■ Springfield Re- 



" These selections are made with exquisite taste, and appear in the daintiest 
little volumes iraagfinable." — Chicago Post. 

" The series contains nearly every gem of prose English literature, and who- 
ever wishes to have the best story of a great writer, without the encumbrance 
of all his works, will do well to get this series of ' Little Classics.' "— Bosttm 
Pilot. 

%• For sale by all Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the 
Publishers, 

James R. Osgood & Co., Boston. 



7h£ ^y\U|^T£FiEF{'3 ^EF^iEg, 



"An exquisite lertes of little books, whose dainty beauty at once makes 
the hand a friend and the eye a lover,— while the varied freshness and grace 
of their contents charm their readers to admiration and delight." 

Eack volume complete, tastefully bound and stamped, with red edges. 
$1.50. 

Saunterings. By Charles Dudley Warner, Author of " My 
Sununer in a Garden," " Backlog Studies," etc. 

Bits of Travel. By H. H. With a Portrait of " A German Land- 
lady," and a Picture of Gastein. 

A. Chance Acquaintance. By W. D. Howklls, Author of 

" Their Wedding Journey," etc. 

The Tonr of the World in Eighty Days, By Jules 

Verne, Author of " Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Seas," etc. 

Among the Isles of Shoals. By Mrs. Celia Thaxter. 

With Four Illustrations by H. I'ENN. 

JPoems of W. D. Howells, Author of "A Chance Acquaint- 
ance," etc. 

Hap-Mazard. A Volume of Travel and Character Sketches in 

America and Europe. By Katk Meld. 

South Sea Idyls. Travel Pictures of the South Pacific and its 
Islands. By CHARLES Warre.n Stoddard. 

Sounds from Secret Chambers. Poems by Laura C. Red- 
den [" Howard Glyndon "]. 

Normandy Picturesque. By Henry Blackburn, Author of 

" Artists and Arabs," etc. With Illustrations by the Author. 

Artists and Arabs. By Henry Blackburn, Author of " Nor- 
mandy Picturesque, ■ etc. With Illustrations by the Author. 

Gunnar : A Norse Romance. By H. H. Boyesen. 

Ten Days in Spain. By Kate Field, "Author of "Hap- 

Hazard." etc. 



BaddecU, and that Sort of Thing. By Charles Dudley 

Warner. $1.00. 

Dr, Ox, and other Stories. By Jules Verne, Author of "The 

Tour of the World in Eighty Days," etc. Illustrated. $ i.oo. 



James R. Osgood & Co., Publishers. 



B D 72. 




>> -(, DOBBSBROS 

•^ ' LIBRARY BINDING 



ST. AUGUSTINE ^.^ '^^ * ' " ' S^ s • • , "^^ 



FLA 
32084 









CONGRESS 




005 469 424 6 



